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PACIFIC SUN

Crystal Cruises

Round-trip Los Angeles
Departs January 5, 2004
14 days
Crystal Serenity

Monday, january 5th – depart los angeles, CA - 6:00 PM

tuesday, january 6th – san diego, ca – 7:00 AM – 2:00 PM

wednesday, january 7th – cruising the pacific ocean

thursday, january 8th – cruising the pacific ocean

friday, january 9th – puerto vallarta, Mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 pm

saturday, january 10th – manzanillo, mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM

sunday, january 11th – cruising the pacific ocean

monday, january 12th – acapulco, mexico – 7:00 am – midnight

tuesday, january 13th – zihuatanejo, mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 pm

wednesday, january 14th – cruising the pacific ocean

thursday, january 15th – mazatlÁn, mexico – 8:00 AM – 5:00 pm

friday, january 16th – cabo san lucas, mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 pm

saturday, january 17th – cruising the pacific ocean

sunday, january 18th – san diego, california – noon – 6:00 PM

monday, january 19th – arrive Los angeles, california – disembark

 

introduction

The only purpose of this trip, for us, is to experience the new Crystal Serenity.  Since we missed the inaugural in July, we wanted to catch up with the latest addition to Crystal's fleet.  We do not intend to go ashore in any of the ports, so the main thrust will be comparing this ship to her older sisters.

monday, january 5th – depart los angeles, CA - 6:00 Pm

Perhaps it is because of media coverage that the City of Angels is often known more for its troubles than its treasures. But for a metropolitan area serving more than 15 million vastly multi-ethnic people, one has to wonder how problems could possibly be avoided. Known to most people as LA (elay), it has not always been a sprawling metropolis. When Spanish explorers first visited in the 16th century, there were only a few small native settlements on the shores of what is now Los Angeles.

The North American West Coast was settled slowly during the next centuries. Cabrillo was one of the first European visitors, but others like Sir Francis Drake followed. The vast new territory seemed endless to them, and all pushed northward to map out and claim new territory in the names of their sponsors. The Spaniards finally established a port in 1781 as a rest and supply stop for their coastal shipping routes. Jesuits had already built a series of missions along the coast of Alta California in the previous decades, and it was posed that the clergy now required protection. The real endangered species was probably the native population. Coastal Indians had begun to die out soon after the Europeans arrived and set up permanent villages. The natives were not used to the immigrant diseases, and their bodies offered no resistance. By 1800, coastal native populations had dropped 50%.

In time, Los Angeles became part of the expanding Mexican empire. But at the end of the Mexican-American War in the mid-19th century, California was ceded to the United States. According to the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Mexican citizens retained their lands, but the burden of proof was placed on the landowners. Some cases dragged on for years; others were never resolved, and in 1850, the territory became the 31st state in the union.

Still, Los Angeles remained small. The obstacle to growth was an acute shortage of water. With the arrival of the transcontinental railroad everything changed almost overnight. Not long after the tracks were laid, oil was discovered in the valley, and people began to arrive in droves. Water was even a bigger problem. The Los Angeles River provided some water, but the population was rapidly exceeding the small river's capacity. The problem was not even solved by the 1913 Owen River Aqueduct project.

By then, a tiny industry had become fixed in the hills north of the city. Panoramic film scenes required space and the new studios provided the perfect milieu. In 1923, the much-photographed giant letters were erected on the hill, and the golden age of Hollywood was born. Strangely enough, the very thing that devastated the rest of the nation spurred the film industry. During the Depression, film grew more popular than ever. People wanted to forget calamity, and cinema offered escape. TV and radio ultimately also found Hollywood homes.

The entertainment industry is still thriving, but the city has diversified. With its universities and institutes, Los Angeles is a major center for research, and it is the largest of all American ports. The surrounding area, now well irrigated, is a major farming area. But as the population swells, farmland is being traded for asphalt, and what were once orange groves are now freeways and housing units. The city covers five counties and 34,000 square miles, making it just a little bit bigger than South Carolina.

What were once outlying suburbs have merged into a vast urban area, and because of the great distances residents must travel, the automobile has long reigned. Suggestions have been raised that certain automobile manufacturers "helped" Angelinos love their cars by squashing attempts to introduce mass transit systems over the years. Whatever the cause, Los Angeles freeways are legendary. Most are named for their destinations. Difficult traffic has become such regularity that alternative toll freeways have been built, allowing easier commutes for those willing to pay a few dollars. And while LA is almost paradise, water remains a looming factor. The precious commodity has caused word wars between local governments and outside water vendors. In the next decades, the life-giving liquid may well become more precious than gold. So allow time to enjoy the riches of one of America's greatest cities.

Our journey began with a car transfer from home to the ship in San Pedro.  We were picked up at noon and arrived at the port before 1:00 PM.  Immediately upon entering the terminal, one of the ground crew came over to welcome us back.  

There were no crowds waiting to board and plenty of chairs for those who had already arrived.  Embarkation was scheduled to begin at 2:00 PM, so we had about an hour to wait.  At check-in, we were given color-coded boarding cards.  When embarkation began, they called each color in order of arrival.  The process could have been speeded up a bit, but it wasn't a problem.  Anyone who arrived at the official embarkation time of 3:00 PM would have walked right onto the ship.

We boarded through the upper level of the lobby where we were greeted by Bruno, our waiter during the second half of last year's World Cruise.  We were escorted to our room by a friendly woman from the shops.  In the elevator lobby, we ran into Mary from the shops who we have known for years.  As with all Crystal ships, there is a crystal fountain with a bronze statue with a musical theme.  In our opinion, this is not the most attractive of the three fountains and the sculpture is way too big for the space.

Our first impression of the ship is very positive.  There is a lot of dark wood and chrome, no brass or mirrors.  The only jarring decor is very unattractive gray marble facing on the elevators and stair landings.  Otherwise, the decor is beautiful, more like Crystal Harmony than Crystal Symphony's modern style.  There is some contemporary, ocean-themed artwork in the stairwells and elsewhere, but it certainly isn't anything museum-quality.

Our penthouse is roughly the same size as those on Symphony, but it appears smaller due to the layout and oversized furniture in the sitting area.  The two lamps by the sofa are way too large for the space.  The verandah is twice as deep as the other ships', which is nice, but the privacy walls do not go to the ceiling so they do not feel especially private.

The room features plenty of storage space and drawers, but the way it is arranged is a bit inconvenient.  There is a sort of desk arrangement that divides the bed from the dressing area.  The side facing the bed has drawers, a flat-screen LCD TV, DVD player and CD sound system, plus a desk with computer connections.  At the end is a bar stocked with soft drinks and water at no additional charge.  Penthouses also get a free supply of alcohol upon request to the butler.  There is a smallish walk-in closet with a door that won't stay open on its own.  The bathroom is well appointed with attractive decor, but the toilet is squeezed into a small alcove created by the glass walls of the adjacent shower.  The shower enclosure is spacious and a big improvement from clingy shower curtains.  Unfortunately, we found later that the drain is inadequate and the shower routinely flooded the bathroom floor.

We waited around for the usual welcome aboard by our stewardess and butler, but neither of them showed up within the first hour.  So, we went off to explore the  ship and see who was out and about.

The first familiar face we ran into in the lobby was Tayfun, now the assistant Food & Beverage Manager in charge of butlers and alternative dining.  He told us to tell him if we need anything and was somewhat appalled that our butler hadn't come by already.  We didn't complain about that, but there was no avoiding it when he asked if we had met him yet.  Tayfun is always very friendly to us.  We've known him almost from the beginning when he was our headwaiter.

We were on our way to the reception desk to ask if our friend Harry was still on board.  He was, and came out to greet us and chat for a few minutes before departing for Australia and his vacation.  While waiting for Harry, we chatted briefly with Renato, the Shore Excursions Manager.  He was glad to hear we like the ship so far, but wants to hear what we think after we have been here for a while.

As we were wandering the stairways, we bumped into Peter, a butler from the last World Cruise, who actually became misty-eyed when he saw us.  He wasn't our butler then, but we did have many lengthy conversations with him.  He is currently a waiter in Prego, but intends to go back to being a butler for his next contract.  He expected Prego to be more exciting, but has decided he has more meaningful interaction with guests in the more laid-back butler position.

We confirmed an issue we had heard about regarding the butler service for the "AA" category staterooms on Penthouse Deck.  Originally, these rooms were not intended to have butler service, but when they didn't sell well Crystal added that perk.  However, the butlers were told not to serve the pre-dinner canapés or free liquor, plus some other services.  This has caused many complaints and problems, hence the reason many of the butlers took other jobs.  We have learned that butler service may soon be eliminated from the "AA" (changed to "P") category as was originally intended.  No word yet on whether this includes a price reduction as well.  It remains to be seen whether any of these changes are actually implemented.

After chatting with Peter for a few minutes, we returned to the room to prepare for the lifeboat drill at 5:15 PM.  Unlike the other Crystal ships, the lifeboats here are tucked into the side of the ship on deck 6, rather than hanging over the promenade.  This allows for unobstructed views from all staterooms, but causes some long, narrow hallways in the public areas devoid of windows.  This results in a somewhat claustrophobic feeling and being totally cut off from the sea.  Also, the muster stations are located in lounges rather than the outside deck.  They have decorated the hallway next to the casino with a Roman theme to match Caesar's Palace, so that side isn't quite as dark as the Photo Shop section.  The elevator lobby near the Galaxy Lounge is way too narrow and quite creepy.  

We arrived a few minutes early for the lifeboat drill at our designated location in the Galaxy Lounge, where chaos was in full swing.  The lifeboat captains were asking people for their lifeboat number, of which most were completely oblivious.  When the staff member didn't get an answer, he would ask to see the room key where this information is printed.  This also resulted in many blank stares from guests.  How did these people intend to get back into their room if they didn't bring the key?  In any case, the whole thing couldn't possibly have been more incoherent and we have no confidence whatsoever that we would find our way out in an emergency. 

Typical of Crystal's lack of advance planning, the stage crew was attempting to prepare for tonight's show during this whole fiasco.  That meant opening and closing the curtains, turning the lights on and off, etc.  Hadn't someone thought to take down last night's scenery before this?  The evening show starts in just a few hours and we find it hard to believe they couldn't have done this at a better time.  

After the drill, we returned to put away our lifejackets.  Christina, our stewardess, came by to introduce herself and to see if we wanted anything special.  Although she did have a list of our preferences, she had not acted upon them at this point. However, she did take care of it during dinner.  We told Christina that she didn't have to wait for us to emerge on port days if she wants to go ashore, much to her delight.

Simon, our butler, also came by to show us the room and to insist that we call him for anything we need.  This in spite of the inability to program the telephone to page him.  He seems like he will be a good time.  As soon as he left, Dave opened the door to ask for the dinner menu and found him telling another butler how nice we were.

By this time we were starving, so we went up to the Trident Grill for hamburgers, which were very good.  The grill here is larger, but offers the same selections as other Crystal ships.  The grill man was an old friend who had moved to the galley.  We also ran into Benjamin, a deck steward who had told us last year he would not be returning.  He is one of the nicest and most attentive of all the deck hands.  That's saying a lot because they are all extraordinarily pleasant.  Benjamin remembered our names and that Bill likes his iced tea watered down.  He also knew where we liked to sit out by the pool.  All of the other deck stewards came over at various times to ask our names and to introduce themselves.  We were also greeted by Ruel, who almost knew our names.

We continued wandering around the ship and ended up taking the laptop to the Computer University @ Sea to be configured.  We had stopped by earlier, but Jesse told us we had to bring the computer down with us.  Lara, formerly Crystal Society Hostess, is now the Dean and she rushed over to greet us and talk about her dog and her recent marriage to Atle Knutsen, the Vice Captain.  Jesse configured the computer which took all of three seconds and cost $25.00.  Due to many complaints about high internet rates, Crystal now has a flat-rate for the entire cruise available for $30.00 per day for up to 3 hours access per day.  This is still ridiculous, but much better than the $5.00 connection charge plus $.75 per minute.  It appears that they have eliminated the per byte charge that was indecipherable before.  Lara said that it wasn't economical to access our shipboard email from the room, but the computer center is open 24 hours, so we can either use our regular email addresses with our flat rate, or come down there to send emails for $2.75 each.  We feel strongly that these fees are outrageous and significantly higher than other cruise lines charge.

By the way, the computer center is nicely arranged with a reception desk and a separate area for casual users that is segregated from the teaching section, a vast improvement.

When we passed through the hallway where Antonio, the maitre d', was holding court, he ran out of his office to greet us by name.  He insisted we come in and verify that the table he assigned to us is acceptable.  For such a short cruise we really don't care as long as it is a table for two, but we pretended to be thrilled with a table by the window.  Ordinarily we don't like the window tables, but on this ship all of the window tables are for two with tables for 6 and 8 next to them.  The tables around the center of the room are also large, but this may be due to the nearly sold out capacity.

We stopped to chat with Richie, a waiter from an adjacent station and Jerry's roommate during the World Cruise.  He said he would tell Jerry we said hello when he returns for the World Cruise.

As mentioned previously, the ship's decor is extremely beautiful and far superior to Harmony or Symphony.  It looks like a very upscale hotel.  The biggest improvement is in the lighting.  Gone are the washed out fluorescents and in are halogen spot lights and incandescent recessed lights that are dimmed at night.  They still do not understand the science of dimming though and the lobby is way too dark at night, in our opinion.

There are several new rooms used for various classes.  The Studio is used for a variety of enrichment classes, including keyboard instruction.  We heard many people saying they were going to sign up for classes.  There is also a room for private dinners that can be arranged with matching wines, we assume all for an additional charge.  These rooms are located on Deck 7 where staterooms are on the other ships.  This is also the location of the two alternative restaurants, Prego and Silk Road.  Silk Road also features a first-come, first-served sushi bar.  The alternative restaurants require advance reservations and a gratuity of $6.00 per person is suggested.  The decor in both restaurants is very attractive and they are significantly larger than on the other ships.  We have heard extremely good reviews of Silk Road's contemporary Japanese cuisine by famed chef Nobu.  We asked Simon to make us a reservation for next week to sample it for ourselves.

Tonight's dress code is casual with no assigned seats in the Crystal Dining Room.

As is our custom, the highlighted items on the menu are the items we actually sampled.

DINNER

APPETIZERS
Sautéed Jumbo Shrimps with Roasted Vegetable Salad
Prosciutto with Apple and Watercress Salad, Topped with Gruyere Sticks
Forest Mushroom Terrine with Tomato Coulis
Tropical Fruit Cocktail with Berries

SOUP & SALAD
Northern Crab Soup with Brie Cheese
Beef Consommé with Truffle Célestine
 Chilled Mango Soup with Nonfat Yogurt
Traditional Caesar Salad with Parmesan Shavings & Homemade Garlic Croutons
Sliced Tomatoes and Mozzarella Cheese with Basil and Balsamic Vinaigrette

PASTA SPECIAL
Penne alla Panna Rosa

SALAD ENTREE
Mixed Grill Salad with Herb-Marinated Chicken Breast, Filet Mignon and Jumbo Shrimps

MAIN FARES
Broiled Filet of Fresh Black Bass with Pink Mustard Beurre Blanc
Baked Chicken Breast Filled with Ricotta Cheese and Sun-Dried Tomatoes on Fine Herb Gravy
Roasted Rack of Wisconsin Veal with Rosemary Gravy
Grilled Filet Steak with Green Peppercorn Sauce

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Eggplant Mousse "Provencal"

DESSERT
Chocolate Hazelnut Pudding Soufflé with Fudge Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream
Lilikoi Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce
Banana Semifreddo with Caramel Sauce
Sugar-Free Chocolate Cream Puff
Sugar-Free Vanilla Custard
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Homemade Cookies

Food review:  Overall, the food was about the same as it is on the Symphony.  In other words, not bad, but not great.  Everything was satisfactory except the tomato salad that had no flavor, and the fruit appetizer.  Everything else was slightly above average, but nothing special.

We were seated in the general vicinity of our assigned table, but not with our permanent waiter.  We were served by Zoltan, who seemed to be extremely thrilled to wait on us.  He knows us from the World Cruise, but hasn't waited on us before.

Tonight's entertainment is the "Bon Voyage Show Time" opening with "Chorus Line" and closing with "Grand Hotel", with a special appearance by À capella Group "The Plaids".  This is the first welcome show we have ever seen that was worth looking at.  All of the acts were outstanding.

Although the tiered seating arrangement in the Galaxy Lounge is an improvement for viewers, the overall decor is drab.  The small lamps on the cocktail tables do add a nightclub atmosphere that is nice.  The stage does not protrude into the audience which tends to limit visibility from the side seats.  Also, there are railings on the side of the stage that intrude upon the view.

After the show we were wandering by the Avenue Saloon and found one of the cocktail waiters standing in the hallway.  Marko chatted with us until Ross, a bartender, rushed out to chat with us right on cue.  We had just told Marko that this was not our first cruise.  Erika came out shortly thereafter and joined in the conversation.  They said that the days leading up to the inaugural were a nightmare because the French shipyard workers spent most of the time smoking and sitting around when they weren't stealing the $16,000 cappuccino machines.  The crew started swapping stories about what had been installed that day and stolen the next.

They had to assign someone from Crystal to go around and check all the crew cabins for mattresses, etc.  She checked off each room as they were completed and sent others back for missing items.  Later, when the stewardesses went in for final bedding and such, they found that when a mattress was missing from one cabin, the workers had just taken it from one she had previously marked as completed.  In other words, they did basically nothing because it was easier to do that than go onto the dock to get another mattress.

Another story we heard from several crewmembers was that when the ship was delivered there was a design flaw that caused the sewer gases to be sucked into the air conditioning intake, making the entire ship smell like sewage.  When they asked the ship yard to send out workers to correct the numerous problems, 200 workers showed up, again doing mostly nothing.  Eventually, the entire plumbing system had to be replaced.  We saw little evidence of this because our shower continued to flood the bathroom in spite of an attempted repair to the drain.  The only other problem in our room is that the volume control in the bathroom (for the TV sound) does not work.

By the way, everyone agrees that the location of the bar immediately inside the doorway into the Avenue Saloon creates an unfortunate bottle neck.  Although this is one of the most beautiful rooms on the ship, getting into it can be nearly impossible.

Apparently, there are a number of other technical problems looming, but they are to be taken care of shortly.  We have seen some poor finish work, but nothing unexpected for a new ship.

Here is a list of the gifts we received today:

    Two bottles of wine and two bouquets from Crystal Society

    $200 shipboard credit from Martha Carpenter (Crystal Cruises)

    $200 shipboard credit from Auto Club

    $700 shipboard credit from Crystal Society

    $400 shipboard credit from American Express

So, we have a total of $1,500 in shipboard credits to spend on this voyage.  $420 goes to internet access right off the top.

tuesday, january 6th – san diego, ca – 7:00 AM – 2:00 PM

 When Europeans first reached San Diego in 1542 under the command of Captain Juan Rodriguéz Cabrillo, they found thriving long-established Amerindian settlements along the shores. The centuries-old small villages remained until the mid-1700s, but the original inhabitants represented a diverse group, comprised of more than 30 tribes. It is not likely that they all arrived at the same time. Various clans probably stopped here during the long migration from Siberia to the tip of South America over a period of thousands of years. Unfortunately, land ownership was not in the cultural traditions of these nomadic peoples, and when the first of five Spanish expeditions came in 1769, the end of their way of life was close at hand.

Several uprisings were launched against the tiny garrison at the Presidio, which was established to protect missionaries who had made their way down the coast. In fact, it was probably the native inhabitants who really needed protection. They had begun to die out soon after the Europeans established permanent villages. The natives were not used to the diseases brought by the new immigrants, and their bodies could offer no resistance to infection. By 1800, coastal native populations had been decimated by an estimated 50%. In spite of this, the Spanish padres continued in their efforts to convert the natives and make them abandon pagan ways.

Spanish rule lasted until Mexico won independence from Spain in 1821. Under the Mexican government, Old Town was capitol of Alta, California, but Mexican rule lasted only until 1848 when, under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Texas, New Mexico, and California came under United States jurisdiction.

The history that one learns in Old Town is not exactly the same as that depicted by the old Hollywood films. Far from glamorous, life was hard for the first settlers. Gunfights were common, but there were no actors to get up and walk away after a shoot-out. Can you imagine coming out of a shop and walking into a street gunfight on a regular basis? Sadly of course, we still have our own societal versions of these events today.

San Diego offers something for nearly everyone today. There are open California-style shopping centers and golf courses galore. Beach-lovers will be able to find the perfect spot for tanning, swimming, or surfing. San Diego even has a Surfing Academy for those who want to learn. Windsurfing is popular on sheltered San Diego Bay. There are lovely gardens and parks, and it is possible to take the trolley from town to the Mexican border where one can walk across to Mexico. There are also bicycle and in-line skate rentals available for those wishing to see the sights in a more active manner.

Available Shore Excursion Number Price
The Military Legacy of San Diego SDG-B $42

Although we were awake in time for breakfast, we dawdled until 10:45 AM before venturing out, much to the surprise of Christina who was in the hallway.  By the way, we had been told before the ship was launched that they planned to eliminate the unsightly carts used by the stewardesses, but they were still very much in evidence.

There are now two choices for late risers breakfast.  Table service at Tastes by the Neptune Pool, or the usual Continental breakfast items in the Bistro.  We walked by to look at the menu at Tastes and it does look somewhat appealing.  However, it was too warm to suit us on the pool deck with the roof closed, so we went down to the Bistro to just snack.  We will have photos of these areas as soon as we can get them without throngs of people in the way.

The Bistro on this ship is quite large and very attractive.  The furniture is comfortable and the service prompt and friendly.  We only knew one of the waiters, but everyone else was equally attentive.  The buffet is much larger than on the Symphony and roughly the same as the new configuration on Harmony, but the selection is exactly the same.

After snacking on fruit and sweet rolls, which were very fresh and tasty, we retrieved the camera to get some shots of the ship as we explored.  

We are docked just steps away from downtown San Diego today, along with the Statendam and Monarch of the Seas.  This was boarding day for both ships, as well as Crystal Serenity.  Boarding was well underway for us before we left the Bistro.  There are over 200 guests arriving today to make up a near-capacity crowd.  The weather is beautiful, but somewhat chilly in the shade.

Here are some observations and comparisons of various public rooms.  The Palm Court on this ship is a combination of features of Harmony and Symphony.  This wasn't a particularly wise thing to do.  The entrance lobby is large to accommodate the crowds before the Captain's parties.  However, there is an ugly planter filled with tacky petrified plants flanking the doorways.  Immediately inside the room is a large dance floor with a small stage.  There is a shortage of furniture compared to Symphony, but it is attractive enough.  They have situated the bar  between the Palm Court and Vista Lounge section, but there is not a wall dividing them and the lounge is not nearly as attractive as it is on the Harmony.  They really should have stuck with the Symphony's design for this room.

The Seahorse pool area is essentially the same as it is on Symphony except there are two spas attached to the pool rather than one.  Later, we realized this was not an additional spa as there is no spa at the Neptune pool as on Symphony.  There is a larger bandstand at one end and a larger covered seating area at the other.  Both of these are improvements.  The attempt at modern art is not.  Both sculptures are too small for the space and look like something one could buy at Pier One.

Serenity boasts a return to a separate disco for the late-night crowd, such as it is.  Pulse disco is attractive on the outside, as well as on the inside where there is a central dance floor and abundant seating.  That's assuming one is willing to brave the dark, very creepy, narrow hallway to get inside.  Apparently, few do, because it is empty most nights except for the staff entertainers who hang out here.

This ship has the Harmony's version of a cabaret lounge at the back of the ship, which is a vast improvement over the dreadfully uninviting Starlite Club on the Symphony.  The Stardust Club is an attractive, warm room with intimate seating arrangements that encourage people to drop in and listen to the band for a while.  There are way too many huge chandeliers, but they are attractive in themselves, so we'll forgive the quantity.

We decided to have lunch in the Lido today, which was very crowded.  The design creates a sense of crowding although the space itself is similar to the Symphony.  However, the way the seating is spread out along the sides and at the back creates some bottlenecks.  All of the tables along the windows are too large.  They should be changed to smaller tables to make more room for the lines and to appease the guests who most definitely do not want to share tables with strangers at lunch.  The serving line is completely incoherent with hot items popping up before and after the salads, etc.  The outside seating area is half the size of either Symphony or Harmony, but is probably adequate.  

We chatted with Peter behind the line, who again expressed his excitement to see us.  The line moved slowly because there was a station for smoked salmon with all the accompaniments placed in the center of the line.  This should have been placed elsewhere so guests would not block everyone else while they picked up each tiny onion or olive.  The food was essentially the same selection as usual, except it was served in ceramic casserole dishes in smaller quantities.  This resulted in a much-improved overall quality and the best Lido meal we have ever had on a Crystal ship.  We still think the selections are too fancy for a casual buffet, but everything we had was very good.

Benjamin took us outside at our request.  We eventually got too cold, but it was OK while we were eating.  Gianlucca came over to greet Dave because he had missed him earlier.  He is now a headwaiter in Prego, where he belongs being from Rome and all.  Besides, it is pretty much impossible to look any more Italian than he does.

Several new deck stewards came over to ask our names and introduce themselves.  Word travels fast among the Filipinos when we show up.

After lunch we ran into Lara's mother who joined today for this cruise.  She lives up the street from Dave's uncle Doug in Point Loma.  She arranged with her husband to flash a beacon at the ship as we sail away, so we said we'd look for it.  As we sailed out at 2:00 PM, the ship blew the horn three times as it passed their house.  And, we did indeed see the beacon flash in return!  Is that cute, or what?

Tonight's dress code is Informal.  Ordinarily, this would be the Captain's Welcome Party with formal attire, but that will be held tomorrow due to the large number of guests who arrived today.  Simon did not deliver dinner menus tonight, so we do not have a copy of the actual menu for you today.  However, it was the same as any second night on any Crystal cruise.  In fact, we simply copied the following menu from the World Cruise and made a few changes that we can remember.

We arrived in the lobby about half an hour before dinnertime, so we stopped to chat with Mary in Captain's Choice.  The shops on this ship are very attractive and the area resembles an upscale mall.  However, the merchandise is identical to that found on the Symphony right down to the Chinese Gambling Chip necklaces they have been trying to unload since day one.  Mary said that although she doesn't like sushi and thinks it is a "trendy fad", that we have to try the sushi in Silk Road because it is incredible and "like nothing you have ever had."

Throngs of guests were still leaving the Crystal Dining Room when the late seating was set to begin, so, needless to say, there was a delay for our seating.  It wasn't much, but was enough to cause quite an uproar among the waiters who only had a few minutes to prepare for us.

DINNER

Appetizers
Snow Crab Tower with Salmon and Malossol Caviar
Fresh Oven-Baked Lobster Strudel with Crayfish Sauce
Fresh Green Asparagus with Tomato-Herb Vinaigrette
Assorted Supreme of Fruit with Maraschino

Soup and Salad
Roman Soup with Pasta and Vegetables
Chicken Consommé with Butter Quenelles
Chilled Beet Root Soup with Sour Cream
Fresh Spinach Salad with Boiled Eggs, Sliced Mushrooms, and Crisp Bacon Bits
Heart of Crisp Lettuce with Potato Slices and Anchovies

Pasta Special
Tortiglione Calabrese

Salad Entrée
Grilled Chicken Breast Salad

Main Fares
Broiled Fresh Salmon Fillet
Pink-Roasted Breast of Duck
Pan-Fried Veal Scaloppini
Grilled Black Angus Filet Steak
Grilled Black Angus Sirloin Steak
Plain Grilled Chicken Breast

Vegetarian Selection
Risotto Milanese with Grilled Tofu, Mushrooms and Fresh Herbs

Dessert
Apple Cinnamon Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce
Vanilla-Strawberry Mille Feuille
White and Dark Chocolate Bombe
Sugar-Free Raspberry Cream Puff
Sugar-Free Baked Pear in Puff Pastry
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Freshly Frozen, Nonfat German Chocolate Yogurt  

Food review:  Again, everything was good, but not spectacular.  There really isn't anything to report other than the meal was satisfactory.  The Roman soup was nothing like the versions served on the other ships, but was very good nonetheless.

We were seated at our assigned table for two along the window.  The dining room was pretty much full except for some small tables that were vacant.  Although we have seen our waiter before, we were not familiar with him.  Both he and his assistant, Dominic, were pleasant and the service was fine.  Our sommelier is Astrid, who we have known for quite a while.  She knew we did not order much wine, but came by anyway just to be pleasant.  Later she returned to present us with a gift of wine from Adair, hence the reason we never have to buy any!

Our headwaiter is Igor, who was promoted during the last World Cruise.  We know him only from a distance.  Mario, another headwaiter, came over after he saw us.  We have known him forever.  During the meal, the waiter from last night came over to say that he had "been hoping against hope" that he was our permanent waiter.  Are we popular, or what? 

Although it didn't seem as though there were any lulls during dinner, we were not finished until 10:00 PM.

Tonight's entertainment was a Variety Showtime featuring "Dance Champions" Clive & Samantha Keay and Banjoist Peter Mezoian.  Both acts were OK for what they are, but not worth writing home about.

Unlike every other cruise at this point between San Diego and Mexico, the sea is like glass.  It is almost impossible to tell the ship is moving.  We move one hour ahead on the clock tonight.

wednesday, january 7th – cruising the pacific ocean

 The sea remains so calm that we can barely tell the ship is moving.  It is still a bit chilly outside, probably in the high 60's.  Definitely not pool weather yet.

We were awakened before 10:00 AM by announcements for the crew fire drill.  Then at 10:00 AM the alarms sounded and more announcements came for the crew.  We've never understood why it is necessary to make announcements in the cabins for this, except maybe one to warn us about it.

In any case, we didn't venture out until noon when we went up for the Asia Cafe luncheon buffet around the Neptune Pool.  We were anxious to see if they had improved anything about it.  The biggest improvement was that they have built in kitchens that eliminate the grease-spewing BBQ grills that used to foul the air during these events.

The food variety was unchanged, but the flavor of all of the dishes we sampled was vastly superior to the other two ships.  We sat outside to listen to the band while eating.  We were fawned over in the extreme by the deck stewards.  Their supervisor came over and told us that they had told him we were so nice to them that they want to serve us.  Every one of them has come over and begged us to order something from him.  Benjamin literally pushes the others out of the way to get to us first.

We stayed outside until after 1:30 PM, then went down to pick up the preliminary cruise itineraries for 2005.  So far we are limiting our choices to shorter cruises that are round trip from Los Angeles, mostly for convenience sake.  

After returning to the room, some maintenance men arrived to leave a temperature meter that records the room temperature over 24 hours.  We haven't noticed any problems with the temperature so far.  They came right back and installed a noise meter in the bathroom.  Again, we have had no problems with noise in the bathroom.  What they need is a flood sensor for the shower!  It's also impossible to keep the toilet seat up which results in some acrobatics at times.

As usual, we fell asleep and had just enough time to get dressed and make it to Palm Court for the Captain's Welcome Reception.

Tonight's dress code is Formal for the Captain's Gala Reception.  There was a line in the lobby, but it only took a few minutes to make it inside.  Herbert Jaeger, the Hotel Director, came out and asked us if we wanted to go through the back door, but we declined.  This Captain likes us and we hadn't seen him yet, so we thought this would be a good way to get it over with.

At the head of the line, Paula Jean, the Crystal Society Hostess, was asking names and introducing guests to the Captain.  There were no other officers in the reception line, which was odd.  Paula Jean doesn't know us, but when she heard our names she said, "Oh, I have to talk to you."  We assume that means we are in the group of highest number of cruises this time, so she'll want to call us onto the stage at the Crystal Society Party on the next formal night.  We aren't hot to do this, but it is relatively painless, so we do it if they ask nicely enough.

The Captain was doing his usual idle chit chat with the guests and hurrying them along.  That is, until we arrived and he launched into a lengthy conversation about whether we had been on the Harmony, how it was, are we going on the World Cruise, etc.  We had to break it off because it was holding up the line.  Paula Jean was flabbergasted.  He seemed as though he had a cold and wasn't shaking hands with guests, which has been the policy for over a year now.

We sat to the side of the room, which was packed to standing room only.  An older couple sat with us and the man complained constantly about the lack of hand shaking.  He didn't buy the excuse of spreading germs and asked everyone he could whether that was the real reason.  He was also annoyed that there were no other officers in the line, which is unusual, we must admit.  However, who cares?

After the usual speeches, which were entertaining and brief, Nikki came over and greeted us warmly, as always.  She said she has been so busy this cruise with new bookings it is unbelievable.  She asked about the house and heard a short summary of the nightmare we found upon our return last year.  We told her we'd be down to see her for our next booking as soon as we can stay awake long enough to make it.

We stopped by the room on the way to dinner, mostly to kill a few minutes while the crowd filtered into the dining room.  By the time we arrived it was an easy walk in.  The room was packed, with only a few tables for two unoccupied.

GALA WELCOME DINNER

APPETIZERS
Iced American Malossol Caviar
Truffled Chicken Liver Parfait with Warm Brioche
Fresh Oysters on Ice with Shallot Vinaigrette
Exotic Fruit in a Pineapple Boat with Orange Cointreau

SOUP AND SALAD
Wild Forest Mushroom Soup "Cappuccino Style"
Clear Oxtail Soup with Wild Rice and Chester Sesame Sticks
Captain's Salad wit Herb-Balsamic Vinaigrette

SHERBET
Refreshing Passion Fruit Champagne

PASTA SPECIAL
Angel Hair Pasta with Goat Cheese, Arugala Pesto and Toasted Pine Nuts

SALAD ENTREE
Beef Tenderloin Salad

MAIN FARES
Broiled Fresh Maine Lobster with Melted Butter or Sauce Hollandaise
Broiled Fresh Halibut Fillet on a Light Saffron Beurre Blanc
Chateaubriand with Port Wine Gravy
Stuffed Marinated Baked Quail with Porcini Mushroom Stuffing
Whole Roasted Sliced Beef Tenderloin

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Grilled Asparagus and Parsnips with Glazed Sweet Potato Soufflé and Broccoli

DESSERT
Caramel Hazelnut Chocolate Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream
Délice au Cafe Mocha Chocolate Cake with Raspberry Sauce
Crunchy Vanilla Mousse with Fudge Sauce
Sugar-Free Yogurt Fruit Terrine
Sugar-Free Mocha Cream Cake
Assortment of Fruits in Season
Truffles and Petit Fours

Food review:  Again, the meal was satisfactory for the most part, but nothing outstanding.  Well, to be fair, the tiny portion of Chateaubriand was outstanding, as was its sauce, but the portion was maybe four ounces, if that.  The twice baked whipped potatoes on the plate with it were so dry they were inedible.  The two snap peas, one baby carrot, 1/8 of a squash, and 1/4 of a broccoli floret were fine.  The pasta appetizer tasted alright, but it was very starchy.  In case you are wondering how mousse can be crunchy, it had a piece of what tasted like a Nestle Crunch bar in the center.

The dining room was fairly chaotic, but it didn't affect us at all.  They summoned butlers down from the Penthouse Decks to help serve some of the larger tables.  As is usually the case, if one large table starts on the special orders, their waiter is so bogged down that everyone else at his station suffers.  Our headwaiter was occupied with a single table the entire evening.  Since we didn't need any special attention, this wasn't an issue for us, just a comment on what was going on around us.  Our Waiter, Karol, seemed to be in control of his station.  Our Assistant Waiter, Dominic, seems to be a fun guy.  Too bad we are on for so short a time.

Pat, the leader of the "Harmonic Trio", had seen us on embarkation day, so we knew he would come by and insist on playing for us tonight at the table.  Even though we said it wasn't necessary, he said, "But we WANT to play for you," and proceeded to do so.  We told him we'd stop by some night and catch up on the ship gossip.  He knows all of the information too hot to share here, but he isn't always particularly forthcoming with it unless we pry it out of him.  However, you all know we will try!  By the way, we find the strolling musicians stopping at each table to be very annoying.  Wouldn't it be more appropriate to play from a central location or maybe walk around and let interested parties summon them?

We declined the offer for a photo at our table, as did 90% of the tables the photographer approached.  We don't mind this practice as long as they take no for an answer, but it does seem rather pointless.  By the way, this ship uses the same method of photo sales as the Harmony where you have to look at your photo when the Photo Shop is open and take it to the cashier.  The Symphony abandoned this practice during the second cruise because it inhibited sales.  There, the photos are always on display and you turn in an order form.  The photos are delivered to your stateroom.  We prefer this method by far.  Besides, looking at all of the photos is one of the favorite activities of many guests.  You'd think they might keep the shop open after the show, which is the only time there is reason to be anywhere near it, but of course, they do not.  The photo hallway looks like this photo 90% of the time.

We had time to stop off at the room to air ourselves out after the dining room became quite warm at the end.  We wish they would choose a temperature and stick with it rather than changing it for every complaint of too hot or too cold.  At least if you know it will be cold or hot you can dress accordingly.

Tonight's entertainment is the lavish production show, "Million Dollar Musicals".  This is one of the best shows and we would have said it rated very good tonight.  That is until the missed cues, dropped costumes, and technical glitches began to pile up about 2/3 of the way through.  This cast is very strong and quite good.  To be fair, they did cope with the problems very well and first-time guests probably wouldn't have noticed the missing or half-working video screens during the finale.  However, this show usually gets a standing ovation and there was no hint of that tonight, although it was well received.  These production errors have plagued Crystal's shows on all of the ships for the past couple of years and it is unfortunate that they didn't work them out for the new ship.

We decided to go directly up to the room tonight rather than hang around in our formal wear.  The sea remains as smooth as glass and the Captain announced that he expects it to be the same tomorrow.  Some people were complaining that it is too cold, but it will be in the 80's at the first port, so who cares?

thursday, january 8th – cruising the pacific ocean

  We were awakened early by the phone ringing, but no messages were left on our voicemail.  A bit later, around 10:00 AM, the ship's alarms went off inadvertently with an announcement immediately following from the Captain telling everyone to disregard it.  So, we were out about half an hour before lunchtime.

Since Paula Jean had said she wanted to talk to us, we wandered down to the Crystal Plaza to see if she was busy.  Finding her at her desk occupied with other guests, we browsed through the shops instead.  Mary filled us in on a few of the regulars who are on board.  The man with the highest number of cruises, in the hundreds, is here, but we have yet to see him.  She wasn't sure of the numbers for this year's World Cruise, but it seemed to be rather low.  We know that one of the segments has a total count in the low 400's.  This ship is larger than Symphony and holds a bit over 1,000 guests compared to 940 for the other two ships.

Our goal was to buy some logo hats or shirts, but the pickings were very slim.  All they have are a few sweatshirts with the Crystal Serenity logo on them and not much else.  The other two shops have merchandise identical to Harmony and Symphony.

For lunch, we went up to the Lido and had another very good lunch.  What a vast improvement it is!  There were several items on the buffet that were appealing to us and everything was very good to outstanding.  We chatted with Peter and Joaquim, who was overjoyed to see us.  Of course, he is overjoyed to see almost anyone.  Let's just say he's rather cheerful.

All of the tables in the Lido, inside and out, were occupied by the time we finished eating.  The seating arrangements are at mostly large tables which results in many parties of two taking up an entire table.  Crystal needs to learn that this is not a group of "joiners".  We moved outside by the pool after lunch and it was fairly full also.  The Tastes area tables were all occupied by baffled looking guests wondering how the whole process works.  We think they could do a better job of explaining the process of obtaining your food from this location.  It is sort of combination of table service and buffet that makes no sense at all, especially when the ship is full as it is now.

The weather is a bit warmer, but not hot.  It is probably in the low 70's.  The sea is slightly choppy, but there is still very little movement.  This didn't stop a run on the seasick wrist bands in the shops, however.  

When the band finished at 1:30 PM, we wandered back down to the Photo Shop to purchase our ghastly boarding photo and a book of interior shots of the ship.  We will have our own photos to post of the remaining public areas not previously covered, but we're waiting until the first port day when most guests are ashore.

After we returned to the room, a maintenance man came in to determine whether our phone was working.  Since it rang several times earlier today, we assumed it was.  He determined that it was indeed working.  Also, he informed us that the speaker in our bathroom is broken and they are waiting for spare parts to repair it.

Simon came by to see if the phone was really fixed (it was) and to say that he was worried because he hadn't seen us for two days.  We assured him everything is fine and that we almost never ask the butler to do anything.  He insisted on bringing an appetizer of guacamole and chips, which he did at 4:30 PM.

Tonight's dress code is Informal.

We stopped by the shops to look for a vest for Bill, but the merchandise selection for men was very limited and extremely over-priced.  It occurred to us to ask at the Front Desk for Ronnie, formerly the librarian, now a telephone operator.  At first the woman at the desk thought he was in back, but it turned out he was back in the library for tonight, so we rushed up to see him.

Ronnie was thrilled to see us and proceeded to tell us as much gossip as humanly possible in fifteen minutes.  You may recall that Ronnie is the beloved librarian who also dressed in drag for some of the World Cruise parties, to the delight of the regulars.  Most of the news concerned who is or is not working the World Cruise.  Turns out that pianist Tom will be the only one of our "group" who will be there, so he's a bit depressed over his decision to do the World Cruise again.  He told us last year that he wasn't interested in doing it again, but money must talk.  We had to run to dinner, but decided to come back afterwards to continue the conversation.

Tonight's menu is virtually identical to the old 50's dinner held on the other ships, but that theme night has been dropped here.  In fact, there are no theme nights on this ship since both production shows associated with those nights have been replaced, thank God.

DINNER

APPETIZERS
Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail with Creole Rémoulade Sauce
Polenta con Funghi - Sautéed Forest Mushrooms with Creamy Polenta
Barbecued Quail on Kernel Corn Tomato Salad
Iced Apple, Grape and Pear Cup with Yogurt Calvados Topping

SOUP AND SALAD
Yellow Corn Bisque with Bell Pepper Confit and Crisp Leek
Chicken Broth with Matzo Balls
Chilled Banana Soup with Jamaican Rum
Medley of Selected Crunchy Field Greens with Carrot Chips and Tomatoes
Tossed Iceberg Lettuce with Lorenzo Dressing and Herb Toasties

PASTA SPECIAL
Capellini alla Veniciana -- Tomato, Clams, Baby Shrimp, Green Pepper Corn, White Wine and Italian Parsley

SALAD ENTREE
Grilled Herb Salmon on a Bed of Marinated Cucumbers, Fennel, Celery, Lollo Rosso and Boston Lettuce

MAIN FARES
Fine Herb Crusted Fresh Lemon Sole Fillets on White Chablis Beurre Blanc
Grilled Medallions of Canadian Venison on Juniper Berry Sauce
Coconut and Banana Stuffed Chicken Breast with Creamy Curry Sauce
Roasted American Prime Rib Beef with Natural Gravy

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Twice Baked Potatoes Filled with Three Cheeses

DESSERT
Creole Sour Cream Cheese Cake with Homemade Caramel Sauce
Honey Glazed Pecan Pie a la Mode
Chocolate Fudge Brownie Sundae
Sugar-Free Lemon Yogurt Timbale
Sugar-Free Jell-O with Fresh Fruit
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Nonfat German Chocolate Yogurt

Food review:  Both soups were outstanding and the highlight of the meal.  Everything else was slightly above average.  Both entrees looked like they would be really tasty, but they fell short of perfection by lacking any strong flavors.  The cheese cake was very good, but the portion was microscopic.

The large table next to us was vacant, so it was fairly quiet in our section of the dining room.  Dominic kept asking specific questions about whether we liked each course, not accepting our answer of "fine".  He asked why the chicken was not great, but just acceptable.  The answer to that was that the stuffing tasted like wet coconut pressed together.  Otherwise the dish was fine.  The prime rib would have tasted like nothing if not for the sauce, but the portion was adequate.

We weren't hot to go to the show, so we went up to chat with Ronnie again.  That conversation lasted until well after 11:00 PM when the library closed.  We heard the story of why he moved to telephone operator, etc.  It's basically the same story as last year that the Filipinos have no where to go once they reach a certain plateau, so in order to get the same pay with less work, being an operator was the only option.  We think they pile extra work on him because the guests love him so much and he is competent, too.  However, extra work does not translate into higher pay around here.  He also had some stories about the fun everyone had while they were being housed at a resort in France while getting the ship ready to sail.  Since the library wasn't finished until the last minute, he spent almost two weeks lying on the beach and basically taking a vacation.  However, all of the books finally arrived only the day before the first sailing and his computer wasn't working, so everything had to be done by hand.  We've heard essentially the same story from everyone, but things like that are to be expected under the circumstances.

Tonight's entertainment is "Dynamic Vocalist" Danny Walten.  As mentioned above, we did not attend the show.

We received a letter from the Crystal Society Hostess informing us what valuable guests we are and that she wants to honor us at the Crystal Society Party for being among the most-traveled members at 35 cruises.  That's fine, but with two port days coming up there is no way for us to fulfill her request to come to her desk to give her information for her introductory remarks.  She'll just have to wing it.

We move another hour ahead on the clock tonight.

friday, january 9th – puerto vallarta, Mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 pm

 Sweeping 25-mile wide Banderas Bay is commanded by charming Puerto Vallarta (vai YAR ta). The name honors Ignacio Luis Vallarta, a previous governor. With the severe coastal mountains only a few miles inland, the town has an atmosphere of utter isolation from the rest of the world. Though it is difficult to imagine, Puerto Vallarta was once a sleepy little fishing village. Original native American settlements date back many centuries. It is known that the kingdom of Xalisco ruled the Pacific Coast from the early centuries of our common era. Perhaps the original inhabitants of Mexico passed through this area centuries before, as they moved southward from their origins in Siberia.

The first Europeans to find the port were under the command of Francisco Hernández de San Buenaventura. They arrived in the 16th century. Hernández, nephew of conquistador Hernán Cortés, named the bay for the 20,000 natives who greeted him bearing weapons topped with brightly colored flags (banderas means "flags" in English). European explorers had earned a reputation, and the people were protecting their land. They did block access, but only temporarily.

The village was not established until 1851 when the Sanchez family settled on the banks of the Rio Cuale. Over the ensuing years, others came and a village grew. The initial driving forces were gold and silver mines, which had been established in the hills. The riches were shipped out of the harbor, and supplies were brought in. There were no roads then. The members of the Sanchez family were not miners. They made their fortune by supplying salt, a necessity for mining.

In 1962, a secluded piece of property on the southern side of the bay was selected for the filming of Tennessee Williams' play Night of the Iguana, and sleepy little Puerto Vallarta awoke with a start. Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor were having a lusty romance, and everyone wanted to know about the progress of their affair. Actually, Burton starred in the film with Ava Gardner, but Taylor came to Mexico to be with him. The stars bought some real estate, and other Hollywood insiders followed suit. Almost overnight, Puerto Vallarta became a fashionable resort, and its quaint character was lost to history.

Visitors will still notice unusual pseudo-Spanish architecture. This look is preserved by local building codes. Even the expansive Hotel Krystal Vallarta complex has been designed with these elements in mind, as has Nuevo Vallarta. The narrow streets in old town are still paved with cobblestones, and whitewashed homes with Spanish style red tiled roofs add an irresistible flavor. Many of the buildings are decorated with elaborate wrought iron balconies, which are often overflowing with bougainvillea. For this reason, Puerto Vallarta is still one of Mexico's most popular destinations. The resorts here offer some of the most luxurious accommodations and service available anywhere, yet the town somehow retains the atmosphere of a small Mexican fishing village.

The bay, one of the world's deepest, is also a wildlife preserve. Dolphins dominate, so sharks are extremely rare. Several species of whale frequent the waters, including gray and pilot whales. Graceful manta rays also glide gracefully through the water. There is a sea turtle preserve on the bay, and the elusive animals breed in some of the secluded coves around the perimeter. On land, unusual animals like iguana can be found.

Shore Excursions Offered Number Price
Puerto Vallarta Highlights PVA-A $39
Dolphin Encounter PVA-B $73
Puerto Vallarta Sightseeing & Private Villa Lunch PVA-C $113
San Sebastian Aerial Exploration PVA-D $145
Sailing & Whale Watching PVA-E $83
Scenic City Drive & Beach Club PVA-F $113

The ship arrived almost imperceptibly into Puerto Vallarta this morning.  The weather continues to be nearly perfect with temperatures in the high 70's - low 80's.  It is a bit overcast, but when the sun comes through it instantly becomes way too hot.

We left the room at noon when Cristina called to ask if we were going out today.  We were, in fact, about to walk out the door when she called.  Our first destination was the Front Desk to have a birthday card delivered to Emilie, our Assistant Stewardess from the last World Cruise.  On the way, we were intercepted by the maitre d', Antonio, who wanted to chat about moving to California.  He seems like a pleasant person.  We had never had a conversation with him until today.  He told us that Crystal is considering building a fourth ship and assigning the Harmony exclusively to the Japanese market.  They have to decide within the next six months.  

We learned that there are about 185 full World Cruise guests this year.  That is roughly the same amount as the year before last, so nothing special.  There were a few more booked, but a few people died during the year and a couple of others cancelled.  The first segment has less than 500 guests total, but the rest have a bit less than 700, which is an improvement over last year.  Antonio said that these round trips from Los Angeles and the same type in the Caribbean have all been nearly sold out.

The Front Desk clerk was occupied with an old couple trying to figure out how to pay their account.  He asked them for their credit card and the woman handed him her room key.  True it looks like a credit card, but the whole point of going to the desk was to provide a credit card for the end of cruise charges, so she should have been aware of what card he needed.  We gave up and gave the birthday card to Billy to be delivered.

Although the Dining Room was fairly empty, we opted for the Lido lunch instead.  The selections are basically the same in both with just a few variations.  Once again, everything was excellent and there were many acceptable choices for us.  We can't emphasize enough what a vast improvement this Lido's food is over Harmony and Symphony.  As usual, we were fawned over by the deck stewards, even the ones we have never met before today.  They make a point to come over and introduce themselves and literally beg us to order something from them.  

After lunch we wandered up to Deck 13, Sun Deck, for a couple of port photos.  The view from here is nice with a panorama along the coast and over the city toward the mountains beyond.  We also had a chance to chat with Renato who had the same sort of horror stories about the inaugural as everyone else we have talked to.  As we had discerned, the quality of construction for this ship is equivalent to Harmony, far below that of Symphony which is acknowledged to be of top quality.  That's not to say it isn't more beautiful, just that the actual construction isn't particularly good.

It was too hot to stay out on the very crowded pool deck and the Neptune Pool area had the roof closed and every table filled with guests who had just returned from town.  The Tastes late lunch appears to be very popular by the number of tables occupied.  Antonio told us that the Chinese Chicken Salad is particularly good.  It does look good and is served in an unusual ceramic bowl that adds to the presentation.

With most guests in town or up on deck, we had a chance to get a photo of the Bistro buffet and it's comfortable seating area.  Crystal has wisely expanded this popular venue to more than double the size of the other two ships.  However, the selection of bistro-style snacks remains the same.  This location also serves specialty coffees and teas at no additional charge.  By the way, whenever one asks for water now, they bring bottled water.  All soft drinks and bottled water are complimentary.

We spent most of the afternoon in the room where it was cooler.  Some of the public rooms are kept too warm to suit us, but we're not sure if this is by design or because of a defect in the system.  The Crystal Fountain hasn't been functional since the second day.  Someone has been working on it for the past two days, but it appears that he has given up and drained the water.

The weather was pleasant enough to spend the time before the sail away on our verandah watching the stragglers come back to the ship, including one young man who appeared to have spent the day in a bar.  It took him several tries to figure out which I.D. to show at the gangway.  He arrived literally at the last second just as they were about to pull up the gangway.  Simon brought our nightly supply of guacamole and chips while we were watching the sailing.

Tonight's dress code is Casual.

DINNER

APPETIZERS
Salad of Roasted Chicken Breast, Avocado and Black Olives, Tossed with Balsamic Vinaigrette
Combination of Fresh Ahi Tuna and Salmon Tartar with Tossed Mixed Greens and Wasabi Dressing
Fresh Artichokes with Tomato Vinaigrette
Fresh Papaya, Grape and Pineapple with Crème de Menthe

SOUP AND SALAD
Chilled Lime and Buttermilk Soup
Tomato Consommé with Cheese Ravioli and Basil Oil
Cream of Fine Garden Herbs with Salmon Quenelles
Romaine Lettuce with Bella Vista Dressing, Golden Pineapple Cubes and Macadamia Nuts
Tossed Baby Spinach Salad with Bacon Dressing, Chopped Eggs and Garlic Croutons

PASTA SPECIAL
Fettuccine with Assorted Spring Vegetables, Tomatoes, Mushrooms, Italian Parsley and Olive Oil

SALAD ENTREE
Ensalada Camarón - Grilled Marinated Shrimp on Corn, Bell Pepper and Tomato Salad

MAIN FARES
Grilled Jumbo Shrimps "Chipotle"
Seared Fresh Costa Rican Ahi Tuna with Onion Sesame Crust
Piccata Milanese - Veal Scaloppini Dipped in Egg and Parmesan Cheese
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Mustard Hollandaise

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Vegetable Lasagna

DESSERT
Sacher Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream
Passion Fruit Mille Feuille with Mango Sauce
Vanilla Cognac Profiteroles with Fudge Sauce
Sugar-Free Coconut Custard
Sugar-Free New York Cheesecake
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Freshly Frozen, Nonfat Eggnog Yogurt

Food review:  The salads were satisfactory, but nothing special.  Both the pasta special and the vegetarian lasagna were edible, but nothing like what we expected based upon the description.  Of the two entrees, the shrimp dish was the best and bordered on excellent.  However, the garlic potatoes served with them were as dry as dust.  The shrimp portion consisted of three medium shrimp, but they were tasty.  The salmon was overcooked and way too dry around the edges.  The Profiteroles were about 1" in diameter, but were fairly tasty for the three bites they lasted.

Dominic made fun of us because were aren't very excited when he delivers a dish.  When we explained it was due to the fact that we have seen these menus 35 times he was shocked.  There were some lulls in the service tonight.  It must have had something to do with the kitchen because the entire half of the dining room we could see had nothing on the tables for at least fifteen minutes.  Karol forgot to serve Bill's side order of garlic potatoes until he was almost finished eating.

We asked Astrid what had happened to Daniel.  She said he had met the love of his life and moved to the bay area.  He is currently waiting for a work permit so he can get back into the wine business.  She said she only came back to the Serenity because he had asked her to help him out.  When she arrived he was already gone.  Everyone else from the Symphony stayed there when they found out he wasn't coming back.

Tonight's entertainment is the musical show "Forever Plaid".  The performance could not have been any better.  The four men did an outstanding job.  The attendance wasn't the best and a few people tired of the shtick, but we thought it was a nice alternative to a regular shows.

There was a notice on the Computer University announcing that there is a problem with the satellite service, so no internet service is currently available.  This happens in this part of the world every time, it isn't unusual.  It's not that big of a deal and we haven't had any problems so far. 

It is still fairly calm, although there is slight rocking motion to the ship tonight.  Certainly nothing close to be rough and most likely from the wind that rough water.

 

saturday, january 10th – manzanillo, mexico – 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Hernan Cortes and his minions, in search of Chinese treasure in the Pacific, were among the first to visit the area now known as Manzanillo. In 1522, Gonzalo de Sandoval, under orders from Cortes, dropped anchor in the Bay of Salagua (north of Manzanillo Bay), looking for safe harbors and good shipbuilding sites. In the year before he left, Sandoval granted an audience to local Indian chieftains in a small cove, which today carries the name Playa de La Audiencia. A great part of his fleet, which left to conquer the Philippines, was constructed in Salagua.

Manzanillo Bay was discovered in 1527 by navigator Alvaro de Saavedra, naming it Santiago de la Buena, or Santiago's Bay of Good Hope. It became a departure point for important expeditions. Cortes visited the bay twice to protect his galleons from Portuguese pirates. Over the next 300 years, the Pacific Coast’s history is filled with accounts of pirates from Portugal, England, France and even Spain assaulting, looting and burning ships for their rich cargos.

In 1825 the port of Manzanillo opened, so named because of the abundant groves of manzanillo trees that were used extensively in the early days of shipbuilding. It was raised to the status of a city on June 15, 1873. The railroad to Colima was completed in 1889, and other amenities, such as electricity and potable water soon followed. In 1908, President Porfirio Dias inaugurated the railway linkage with Guadalajara, and designated Manzanillo as an official port of entry. It was the state capital from February 20 to March 1, 1915, while Pancho Villa’s troops were threatening to capture the city of Colima.

In recent times, the harbor was modernized and deepened, allowing access to all major shipping lines around the world. As the largest port on the western coast of Mexico, it can admit ships of more than 30,000 tons. The federal government has built a coal-fueled power generating plant, which supplies electricity to a 5-state area (although the city of Manzanillo has its own separate power plant.)

Manzanillo has been touted as the "Sailfish Capital of the World," made famous by the fishing tournaments held in November and February, with prizes worth thousands of dollars. Then in the early ‘80s, Bo Derek and Dudley Moore starred in the popular movie "10" , filmed at Las Hadas resort and La Audiencia beach. Other movies done at or near Manzanillo include the made-for-TV mini-series, "Return to Eden," the remake of "McHale’s Navy," and "I Still Know," (the sequel to "I Know What You Did Last Summer.")  released in 1999.

Shore Excursions Offered Number Price
Introduction to Manzanillo MZN-A $37
Exploring the Countryside by Horseback MZN-B $59
Snorkeling Adventure MZN-C $76
In-depth Colima MZN-D $84

Paula Jean left a message for us saying she would call us tonight between 4 and 5 because, "You don't do mornings."  All she wants is something cute to say about us for the Crystal Society presentation tomorrow night.

We were up by 10:00 AM, but made no effort to get ready or out of the room until just before noon.  This isn't the most exciting port, but we went up to the Sun Deck to take a couple of port photos anyway.  There is a large bay ringed by resorts just across the harbor from the ship.  It is warmer and more humid than it has been so far, but it isn't ridiculous because of the light cloud cover.

Again, we had lunch in the Lido with less success than we have had prior to today.  There wasn't really anything wrong with the food, but the selection wasn't what we wanted.  However, there is little chance of starving around here, so we made up a meal as best we could and sat outside on the aft deck.

After lunch, we wandered around for a few minutes and ran into Polly, a woman from the office who helps with the shows.  We met her several years ago on the Symphony when she was traveling with Philip, who we have known since the beginning.  He finally got his big break as a costumer with the Broadway production of "Wicked".  She was glad he finally found a way to break away from Crystal.

We ran into Simon in the lobby where we were inspecting the latest version of the Crystal Piano.  This one has the ability to play itself, but we have never seen it operating.  Simon said they sometimes use it on port days, but it doesn't sound as natural as having the pianist there.  Simon confirmed our reservation for Silk Road on the 17th.  We chose that date so we could avoid the Baked Alaska Parade in the Dining Room.  Simon said that guests either love it or hate it.

With nothing left to do, we returned to the room for the rest of the afternoon.  The sky became darker and there was some thunder and lightning, but that's about it.  It made no difference to us and from what we could tell most of the guests had returned to the ship in time for lunch.

The Guest List arrived and by our count there are about 782 total guests and 539 are Crystal Society members.  From the crowded feeling in the Lido and on the pool deck we thought the ship was sold out, but it is 300 short of that.

Paula Jean called to get information for our introduction at the Crystal Society Party tomorrow night.  She wanted a special "Crystal Moment", but we couldn't think of anything specific.  However, she was happy with our assertion that we make lasting friends with the crew.  It's basically the same thing everyone says, although it is true.  We expressed surprise that we were high enough up to be recognized, but it's because all of the really high up guests are on the first seating.  Not that 35 cruises is anything to sneeze at, but there is at least one man on board with well over 100.

It started to rain just before the sail away, with the lightning and thunder continuing well after dark.  The sailing was as usual a bit late for no apparent reason.  No announcements have been made before any of the sailings as was always done in the past.

In the lobby before dinner, we chatted briefly with one of the guys from "Forever Plaid" who is always hanging out by himself.  We always feel sorry for the ones who are sort of on the outside of the group.  He seemed quite pleasant.

Tonight's dress code is Casual.

DINNER

APPETIZERS
Sautéed Sea Scallops with Garden Lettuce, Tossed in Walnut Vinaigrette
Garlic Boursin Cheese Stuffed Eggplant Roll
Chinoise Chicken Salad with Crisp Won Ton and Spicy Peanut Dressing
Mosaic of Fresh Fruit with Grapes and Grand Marnier

SOUP AND SALAD
Potato Soup with Shitake Mushrooms and Chive Oil
Beef Consommé with Olive Croutons
Iced Tomato and Orange Soup with Grapes and Melon Balls
Selection of Garden Spring Leaves with Alfalfa Sprouts and Golden Fried Mushrooms
Tossed Crisp Romaine Lettuce with Papaya Lemon Dressing

PASTA SPECIAL
Striped Spinach Cheese Tomato Ravioli with Tomato Confit, Leek Straw and Pesto

SALAD ENTREE
Steak Salad on a Bed of Summer Greens

MAIN FARES
Pan-Fried Dover Sole with Melted Lemon Butter
Macadamia Nut-Wasabi Crusted Pink Roasted Lamb Loin with Balsamic Red Wine Sauce
Crisp Lemon-Herb Marinated Rotisserie Chicken with Pan Gravy
Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Bacon Potato Hash

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Whole Wheat Crepes Filled with Spring Vegetables and Light Tarragon Sauce

DESSERT
Chocolate Banana Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream
Spanish Vanilla Cake with Chocolate Sauce
Frozen Pumpkin Mousse with Caramel Sauce
Sugar-Free Sour Cream Timbale with Berry Sauce
Sugar-Free Apple Custard Pie
Homemade Cookies
Refreshing Tequila Sunrise Sherbet

Food review:  The Chinese chicken salad was very good, as were both entrees.  Everything else was satisfactory.  Our headwaiter came over and removed the bones from the fish without being asked, which was nice.  Too bad he didn't do the same for the chicken, but one can't have everything.

Antonio stopped to chat for a while.  He seems to be contemplating buying property in Temecula for a winery when he leaves shipboard life. 

Tonight's entertainment is guitarist George Sakellariou and was presented before dinner, which we hate.  There is no reason we can see for changing the schedule tonight.  However, we weren't interested in this act anyway, so it's not a problem this time. There is a cabaret show in the Stardust Club starring singer Danny Walten at 10:30 PM.

We dawdled around in the Dining Room and made it out just as the cabaret show began in the Stardust Club.  We stood in back to see if we were interested in the singer.  After determining that we weren't all that excited with him, we moved next door to the Avenue Saloon to listen to Collin Salter, the pianist/singer who has been trying to get us to come in for days.  He was acceptable, but we wouldn't knock anyone over to get in to see him.  The room itself is attractive in a gentlemen's club sort of way.  The furniture is comfortable with velvet loveseats and sofas, plus wooden barrel chairs with soft upholstery.  It is quite dark and would be too crowded on a regular night to bother with.  This is the lounge where the bar is directly inside the entrance, so most people don't even come in.  Once past the bar area, there is a nice seating section.  We stayed until just before midnight and made our exit during one of Collin's breaks.  Marko, one of the new bar waiters, came over and introduced himself and asked our names.  He has been very friendly from the first day when he tried to get us to come in.

On the way back to the room, we passed the deserted lobby where the Harmonic Trio was playing to a single couple sitting in the bar.  There were no other guests in sight.  Pat brightened up when he saw us, but we didn't stop.

We received a very nice note from Nikki and a gift of two Crystal calendars and a box of chocolate truffles.  She expressed her disappointment that we won't be on the World Cruise, but was glad we came for at least a short time.  We intend to book another short cruise on the Harmony for September as soon as we can.  

sunday, january 11th – cruising the pacific ocean

The day started with stormy skies and slightly rough seas, but all was calm again by late afternoon.  It is still quite warm, in the low 80's, and very humid.  The coast of Mexico was in sight all day.

Today's lunch was the Nuevo Latino buffet around the Neptune Pool.  We were out and about early, so we staked out a table and waited for the lines to subside around 12:30 PM.  Nearly every table was filled both inside and out.  Several Deck Stewards brought bottles of water and iced tea to make our table look occupied, but we took turns getting our food anyway.

They haven't quite figured out a coherent arrangement for the deck buffets yet.  The first part with the cold foods is roughly the same as the other ships, but the hot foods are around the corner at Tastes.  This leads to guests going in every direction and clashing in the center of each line.  There were several disgruntled guests at the hot food counter because they weren't serving tacos and didn't have tortillas that weren't already made up into fajitas.  We have to say that the only recognizable items were tamales, but they were in odd flavors such as salmon and cream cheese, or vegetarian chorizo.  Most of the selections we had were tasty enough and we had plenty of food.

At just after 1:45 PM we decided it had become too warm to stay outside, so we went down to the lobby to get a list of rooms that would be open today for inspection.  We waited for Paula Jean to arrive at her desk so we could inquire about which Milestones we still have unused.  This makes a difference for the next cruise because certain levels give you a cabin upgrade and others are airfare or stateroom credits.  We're not sure at this point what levels we have coming.  She said she would email the office and find out for us tomorrow.  We also gave her our snow story from the last World Cruise for tonight's Crystal Society party.  

The man with 126 cruises is ill, so he isn't participating in the party tonight.  During the first seating party the highest number of cruises is 60.  During late seating, the highest is 36, so we are the second highest of three with 35.  We determined that they are not taking honorees to dinner, which is perfectly fine with us, but Paula Jean looked horrified as though no one told her she was supposed to do that.  It has been so many years since we have ranked high enough that we have no idea whether it is still common practice or not.

We took the tour of the open staterooms.  The verandah cabins are identical to those on the Symphony except the wood is dark cherry instead of whitewashed oak.  The AA or P cabins that are supposedly upgraded versions of regular verandah rooms are identical to the regular rooms as well.  The only obvious difference is the addition of a gold accent stripe on the wood.  This certainly doesn't warrant the higher price.

Penthouse Suites are roughly the same as on the Symphony, but there is the addition of a dining table and four chairs.  We don't recall what the configuration is on Symphony, but it seems to us that they were more roomy.

After our tour we went down to wait for Nikki to book our next cruise.  There were a few people waiting on the sofas near her desk, but several guests barged in out of turn, as always.  We decided we would prefer to nap than wait, so we left.  Paula Jean was horrified, but we assured her we didn't care and that it certainly wasn't Nikki's fault.

The Crystal Society Party was held in the Palm Court beginning at 7:45 PM.  We arrived early enough to get a seat where we wouldn't have to climb over anyone to get to the stage during the presentation.  Two old ladies sat with us and were appalled when we were called up as the second-highest number of cruises.  The best part of the whole thing is the reaction of the other guests.  They just can't imagine how anyone could rack up so many cruises.  Two instructors from the Computer University had come over to sit by us purposely.  They were also appalled by our number of cruises.

We received a bouquet of red roses, rose boutonnieres, and a photo with the Captain, Paula Jean and Gary Hunter, the Cruise Director.  The Captain even shook hands with us, which he isn't supposed to do.  Nikki was somewhat surprised that Paula Jean hadn't sent the bellmen around to collect the bouquets to be put in a vase and delivered to the guests.  Apparently she wasn't aware of this procedure.  We followed them down the stairs with Nikki carrying the flowers.  However, we ran into Cristina on the way and she took them and found a vase.

Tonight's dress code is Formal.  We were about half an hour late to dinner because of the lengthy discussion with Nikki and Paula Jean, but nobody seemed to mind.  The Dining Room was over half empty due to both alternative restaurants hosting large private parties.  

FRENCH DINNER

APPETIZERS
Escargots Bourguignon
Seafood Cocktail Served with Sauce Marie Louise
Crackling Salad with Smoked Duck Breast Tossed in French Dressing
Citrus Fruit in an Orange Basket, Perfumed with Crème de Cassis

SOUP AND SALAD
French Onion Soup
Vichyssoise with Bell Pepper Mousse and Watercress
Beef Consommé with Foie Gras Profiteroles
Panache of Mixed Greens with Red Leaf Lettuce, Chopped Egg and Dijon Mustard Dressing
Vegetable Salad Niçoise

SHERBET
Refreshing Beaujolais Kir Sherbet

PASTA SPECIAL
Fusilli Boscaiole

SALAD ENTREE
Sea Scallops Salad

MAIN FARES
Broiled Fillet Fresh Pacific Snapper
Coq au Vin
Pink Roasted Rack of Lamb
Veal a la Mama

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Homemade Porcini Mascapone Ravioli

DESSERT
Soufflé Grand Marnier with Sauce Negresco
Caramelized French Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream
Glace aux Framboises - Raspberry Ice Parfait
Sugar-Free Cassis Yogurt Timbale
Sugar-Free Vanilla Profiteroles with Diet Chocolate Sauce
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Petit Fours and Chocolate Truffles
Freshly Frozen, Nonfat French Vanilla Yogurt

Food review:  Everything was good, but not spectacular.  The sherbet course was way too heavy on the alcohol content and was somewhat shocking to eat.  The fish was perfectly cooked, but didn't have much of a flavor.  The soufflés were very good, but not as good as on the Symphony where they are a highlight.

Dominic and Astrid talked about working on Disney Cruise Lines, among others.  They said Disney treats their crew equally as well as Crystal does, which is very good.  However, the same cannot be said for Celebrity and other large ship lines.  Dominic would be fun to have as a waiter some time.  He speaks excellent English and has a good sense of humor.  He constantly teases us because we always say things are "fine", or "OK".  However, once he found out how many cruises we had been on he understood that we have seen these menus so many times that it is difficult to surprise us.  We also chatted with Karol.  He came from the Harmony and didn't know us before this cruise.  He seems pleasant, but his English isn't quite as good so he is a bit more serious.

Tonight's entertainment is the production show "Fascinatin' Rhythm".  The show opened with several technical problems piled on top of one another.  First, the video screens lowered for the introduction, but nothing appeared on them.  So, they went back up.  The curtains opened and the dancers began their approach to the edge of the stage, while the curtains closed on them.  Other than that the show was fine.  This cast is outstanding for the most part, which makes up for some of the technical problems.  This production has been changed significantly from the version playing on Harmony and Symphony.  One entire number has been replaced with the only tasteful costumes in the show.  Because they are classy and not vibrant Technicolor extravaganzas, they don't quite fit, but they are nice.

The ship is basically just sitting off the coast of Acapulco, which is visible on the horizon.  We dock at 7:00 AM tomorrow for an all-day stay.  It is supposed to be at least 88 degrees and partly cloudy.  The clouds might help to alleviate the heat a bit, but we expect it will be very humid again.

Internet service was not available tonight, as is common in this part of the world.  The TV signal was also intermittent on the satellite channels.

monday, january 12th – acapulco, mexico – 7:00 am – midnight

 Among Mexico's treasures, there are many tangible components, like gold, silver, oil and rich fertile soil, but perhaps the greatest prize in the land of mystery is something that is somewhat less distinct. Mexico wears her beauty as gracefully as la Malinche wears her elegant white gown for the traditional Matachine. No one has missed the lovely landscape's natural complexion. The Sierra Madre appears through the coastal mists as if they were painted upon a watercolor backdrop. It is only at a second glance that you realize it is real. After WWII, a series of development projects were launched in an effort to build up the nation's resort areas and attract foreign visitors. Initially prosperous, the economy later began to waver, and progress slowed somewhat.

The first of the Pacific resorts was "discovered" in the 20th century. Although Acapulco had long been a favorite destination for residents wishing to escape the heat and pace of Mexico City, outsiders soon began to hear of the quiet resort. With the release of the Hollywood film Night of the Iguana (filmed in Puerto Vallarta), word got out about the charm and relaxed pace of the Mexican seaside. Of course, it was extremely helpful that glamorous movie stars and members of the emerging jet set were building Mexican vacation homes.

The resort name comes from a Nahuatl (Aztec) phrase that means "place of the destroyed reeds," but although there may have once been wild reeds growing around the bay, they were cleared long ago to make way for Acapulco's legendary beaches. Perfect weather is a major drawing card. The water is warm and the air temperature hovers at a constant 85ºF year round. There are more sunny days in Acapulco than there are in any other Mexican resort, so it was no surprise when statisticians recorded that vacationers in the magical city spend most of their time atop a towel on a personal section of beach.

Long before anyone dreamt of tourism, Spanish colonists recognized Acapulco's perfect natural harbor, and built it into one of their busiest Pacific ports. Offering natural protection from pirates, inexperienced sailors