Harmony's Farewell

PACIFIC SUN	Crystal Cruises
Round-trip Los Angeles Departs November 18, 2005	7 days Crystal Harmony

*CRYSTAL HARMONY'S FINAL VOYAGE*

Introduction

We set sail on this voyage with a touch of sadness, as this is Crystal Harmony's final voyage under the Crystal flag. She will go directly to an extensive drydock in Victoria at the end of this cruise where some much-needed repairs and replacements to mechanical systems will be made. After that, sometime in January, 2006, she will cross the Pacific to return to Japan from whence she came. There, she will be refitted for the Japanese market and renamed Asuka II as a replacement for NYK Line's much smaller vessel. By the way, NYK is Crystal's parent company, so it is somewhat as though an adopted child has been returned to her natural mother. Certainly it is sad for many guests who have many wonderful memories aboard, but consider also the many long-time crew members, some of whom have been with the ship from the beginning. It is for them that we have the most sadness. Some will retire with the ship to start life ashore, while others will transfer to Crystal Symphony or Crystal Serenity. One thing is certain, nothing will replace Crystal Harmony in the hearts of many.

Now, down to business! This cruise has been sold out for quite some time, for obvious reasons. Even so, we received an additional discount of $800 off our total fare when final payment was made. Since the ship is being held together with chewing gum and duct tape at this point, that may have something to do with it. However, just a month ago the ship was looking pretty spiffy, at least to a guest's eye. We do know that some major mechanical systems are failing and will be replaced soon, to the tune of something like $15 million. And that is before the ship transfer to Japan for an extreme makeover to suit Japanese tastes.

Crystal Harmony Photo Tour

As usual, we drove the two hours to the Port of Los Angeles, arriving around 2:00 PM. We know Crystal begins boarding by noon, but we have never found any crowds or problems boarding, so we elected to arrive a bit later. However, 3:00 PM is the officially announced boarding hour. In any case, we found no delays in boarding. There was a small crowd waiting at the balloon arch leading to the escalators, but it had dissipated by the time we finished checking in. We were informed of a sail away deck party beginning at 3:15 PM, a lifeboat drill at 4:15 PM, and handed cards for the late seating tonight in the dining room. The latter was of no concern to us because we had already arranged to dine in the Kyoto Restaurant tonight. Don't ask how we managed to do that in advance because we're not telling. We'll just say, "Don't try this at home," unless you want someone to laugh in your face.

Once on board we were quickly ushered to Penthouse 1063, the absolutely last cabin aft. The door beyond ours leads out to the aft deck. The only difference in this room compared to others is that the verandah is roughly twice as deep. The extra space is nice, but the railing is solid, so the view isn't quite as expansive. None of that matters to us and we were quite happy to get this room on a sold-out cruise.

We were quite surprised that several rooms worth of guests had not arrived until just minutes before the ship sailed. That certainly was cutting it too close for comfort.

Our butler, Danzyl from India, arrived promptly and took our order for the two complimentary bottles of liquor we chose from a set menu. He was very friendly and talkative, which was quite nice for the first meeting. Apparently Costa from our previous cruise had already filled him in about us, so the ice was already broken before we arrived. After a pleasant conversation with Danzyl, we went up to make haircut appointments with Benji in the salon.

We met our stewardess and her assistant in the hallway on the way out, Helena and Jean-Claire. Both of them were extremely personable and were anxious to make everything just right. We can see the pride that many of the crew have in this ship and it is truly sad that in less than a week it will all be over.

Benji was holding court in the usual place for boarding day, the back of the fitness center. The fitness director was excited when we started in his direction, but no such luck. Anyone who expects us to do anything remotely resembling exercise will be sorely disappointed.

Benji wasted no time in rushing over to greet us. We made appointments for the day after tomorrow when she will have more time to talk. Everyone wants appointments for the first formal night and are in no rush anyway. We'll catch up with her then.

The area around the Seahorse pool had been decorated in advance for the pre-sail away party held at 3:15 PM. There was to be a "fly over" during the party. This consisted of a plane towing a banner saying, "Farewell Crystal Harmony - Thanks for the Memories". Free champagne was served and it seemed to be a well attended event. A band played on the stage overlooking the pool. We recognized several guests from previous cruises, but only chatted with one woman who we had met briefly during the Alaska cruise this year. She was also lamenting the loss of a Crystal ship on the west coast and especially no cruises departing from San Francisco where she lives. She confirmed that Holland America has declined significantly recently, which is too bad. She said that she had always enjoyed it, but they seem to have a "couldn't care less" attitude now. That is really unfortunate since we are sort of running out of options for cruises acceptable to us.

Elizabeth, a photographer we have known forever, came over to chat. She isn't being allowed to come back to a Crystal ship by the owner of the photography company, so she is expecting to leave ship life after many years. She really doesn't want to leave yet, but the options are not appealing. It is too bad and we know that many world cruisers will sorely miss her.

After the deck party, we stopped to chat with Randal, the Cruise Consultant. He had said previously that he wants to have dinner with us along with Bernard Walz, so we told him we would change our existing Kyoto reservation for later in this cruise to include them. We were on the way back to the room to collect our lifejackets for the drill when we ran into Costa, our butler from the previous cruise. We knew he would be happy to see us, and he was. He said he had already gone by the room looking for us. We chatted briefly with him and then continued to the room.

The lifeboat drill was the same as usual. We could have lived a long time without standing in the direct sun when it was 92 outside, but otherwise it was nothing unusual. Getting to our station is quite convenient by taking the outside aft stairway that is accessible right outside of our door.

Back at the room after the drill, we decided we were starving, so we went up to the Trident grill for hot dogs and sandwiches. If the other guests in the area had a clue of how a line works it would have been much quicker, but the service was as good as can be expected under the circumstances. Service from the deck stewards was very inattentive, however, as per usual on this ship. They are very pleasant, but they should be more aware of what is going on rather than standing around talking among themselves. Our food was adequate, nothing special.

After lunch we went back to the room to cool off and unpack. The latter took all of maybe fifteen minutes. We hadn't even bothered to remove the hangers when we packed since our bags had plenty of room for everything. We figured that we should have some extra room just in case Crystal decides to give away anything extra. That is highly unlikely, but one never knows for sure.

Tonight's show was scheduled before dinner, which we really dislike. However, since it wasn't the God-awful "Pirates to Pinafore" drivel, we decided to attend. The performance consisted of to short dance numbers by the dance instructors, a comedy-singing-piano act by Jon Courtenay, and ventriloquist Mark Merchant. All of them were very entertaining, but the audience was quite sparse. We would estimate that there were about 100 guests in the room, if that.

The next chore was to take the computer up to be configured for access from the room. Several butlers, including Costa and Danzyl, were in the hallway, so we got caught up in a conversation with them for a few minutes. Later we had another lengthy conversation with Danzyl who seemed fascinated with what it is like on Crystal Serenity because he will transfer there immediately after this cruise. We tried to be gentle, but the fact is that the butlers who came from the other ships dislike the new system used for the butlers on the Serenity. We aren't aware of anything specific except that they are more micro-managed there than they are here.

At the Computer University @ Sea, we waited a few minutes for an attendant while they tried in vane to get another guest's computer connected. The woman setting up the accounts recognized us and knew our computer was already set up properly. All it needed was a minor password adjustment for this cruise and we were all set. She didn't charge us the $15.00 setup fee as is customary when your computer has previously been configured. We say this every time, but we find that fee outrageous under any circumstances considering the ridiculous internet access fees on Crystal ships. Both of the attendants were very pleasant, so no complaints there.

As we were walking to the computer room we were greeted by the Food and Beverage Manager who asked if we were on the way to the Reunion Party that was in progress in the Palm Court. We weren't aware of a party, so we were not going there. He was appalled we hadn't been invited, but we would not have attended anyway. We have never had every minute of an embarkation day as full as this one has been. At this point it was nearly 6:00 PM and we had just arrived for the computer setup. By the way, we actually had received an invitation to the party, but we didn't read it thoroughly and missed the fact that the party was tonight.

Tonight's dress code is Casual. We did not receive copies of the Crystal Dining Room menu for tonight, so we don't have that information for you. Our dinner was in the Kyoto Restaurant. As always, the items we ordered are highlighted.

 S T A R T E R S 
Lobster Dumplings
Lobster and Scallions in Golden Fried Crisp Rice Leaves, Served on Two Delicious Sauces
Wagyu Beef Tataki
Seared and Thinly-Sliced Prime Beef Garnished with Spicy Daikon
and Onion Salad, with Lemon-Soy Sauce
Yakitori
•Skewers of Grilled Japanese-Style Chicken and Shiitake Mushrooms with Spring Onions
Brushed with Soy-Mirin Sauce
Unagi Kabayaki
Barbecued Fresh Water Eel, Glazed with Sweet Unagi Sauce, Served on Cucumber Salad
Hiya Yakko
•Chilled Tofu with Scallions, Freshly Grated Ginger, Soy Sauce and Bonito Flakes
S A S H I M I
• Blue Fin Tuna, Yellow Tail and Salmon Sashimi
White Fish Carpaccio with Yuzu and Chives
Fresh Salmon Tartar with Sevruga Caviar and Wasabi Pepper Sauce
S A L A D S
Tuna Sashimi Salad
• Seared and Sliced Blue Fin Tuna on Fancy Greens, Tossed in Wasabi Dressing
Garnished with Tosaka and Hari Nori Seaweed
Seasonal Greens
With Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Radishes and Daikon, Tossed with Onion Vinaigrette
S U S H I
Fresh Salmon * Ahi Tuna * Unagi * Shrimp * Spicy Scallop * Squid * Octopus
House Special Roll
Spicy Tuna Roll * Tempura Roll * California Roll * Vegetarian Avocado Roll * Spider Roll
S O U P
• Miso Soup with King Crab Meat and Fried Tofu

 S O B A A N D U D O N 
J A P A N E S E N O O D L E D I S H E S
C O L D
Served with Dipping Sauce, Scallions, and Wasabi
Zaru – Plain Soba or Udon Noodles
Tempura – Vegetable and Shrimp with Soba or Udon Noodles
H O T
Served with delicious Broth, Scallions, Shiitake Mushrooms, and Sichimi
Kake – Plain Soba or Udon Noodles
Tempura – Vegetable and Shrimp with Soba or Udon Noodles
Kitsune – Fried Tofu with Soba or Udon Noodles
Chicken – with Soba or Udon Noodles
Wakame – Seaweed with Soba or Udon Noodles
• Low-Carb Choices

 K Y O T O S I G N A T U R E O B O N T R A Y 
Grilled Lobster Tail on Seasonal Vegetables
Filet Steak with Teriyaki Sauce
Vegetable and Shrimp Tempura
Steamed Rice or Crab Fried Rice
Hiyayakko (cold tofu) or Agedashi (deep-fried tofu)
Miso Soup
Japanese Pickles

 M A I N D I S H E S 
T E M P U R A
With Traditional Mirin-Soy Sauce
Seasonal Vegetables
Jumbo Shrimp
Alaskan Crab Claw
Dipped in Tempura Batter and Crispy Fried
M I S O F I S H
Broiled Alaskan Black Cod with Miso
Garnished with Young Ginger Stem and White Rice
S E A F O O D B U T T E R – S O T E I
Sautéed Lobster, Scallops, Shrimps, Squid, Snow Peas
and Mushrooms in a Spicy Lemon-Garlic Sauce
S A L M O N S H I O - Y A K I
Pan-Roasted Salmon with Ponzu Sauce and Wasabi Mashed Potatoes
B E E F T E P P A N Y A K I
• Filet Steak Grilled To Order, on Stir-Fried Vegetables Served with Teriyaki Sauce
P O R K O R C H I C K E N K A T S U
Panko-Breaded Pork or Chicken Cutlet Golden-Fried, with Cabbage Salad
Ton Katsu Sauce and Spicy Mustard
S I D E D I S H E S
White Rice *Crab Fried Rice * Brown Rice * Seasonal Vegetables
Wasabi Mashed Potatoes
•Low-Carb Choices

 D E S S E R T S 
K Y O T O G R E E N T E A I C E C R E A M
With Lichee Nuts and Midori Liqueur
C A R A M E L I Z E D S P I C E D R I C E P U D D I N G
With Berry Sauce
I N D I V I D U A L C H O C O L A T E C H E E S E C A K E
With Passion Fruit Sauce
T H E C R È M E B R Û L É E S A M P L E R
Try one of each: Ginger, Passion Fruit, and Coffee Crème Brûlée
A S S O R T M E N T O F C H I L L E D
F R E S H T R O P I C A L F R U I T
With Plum Wine

 T E A 
J A S M I N E T E A
G R E E N T E A
K O R E A N G I N S E N G T E A
R O A S T E D J A P A N E S E T E A

 C O F F E E 
E S P R E S S O
C O F F E E
D E C A F F E I N A T E D C O F F E E
Please ask your server about our fine selection
of after-dinner liqueurs and other special drinks.
Gratuities for your server are at your discretion.
We recommend $6 per person.

When we arrived for dinner we were inadvertently taken to Prego instead, but we caught him before we were actually seated there. We were seated next to the window, which is fine unless another party is seated adjacent, which they were. However, they appeared to not like the menu and ordered next to nothing and left quickly.

Paulo rushed right over to chat. He has known us forever, knows who is who, etc. He still doesn't know if he will be moving to another Crystal ship or not, which we fine appalling. There is no more dedicated crew member than Paulo and we told him as much.

Our meal was adequate, but not quite as good as usual. Service, while pleasant enough, was a bit disjointed. We weren't going anywhere, so it didn't matter when there was a slight lull, but the couple next to us seemed a tad annoyed by it. They also had problems understanding the waiters accent, which was not all that difficult to figure out.

As we were leaving we changed our reservation for the final formal night with no problem, but when we arrived back at the room we realized the reservation card had us down for the final night of the cruise. We think the maitre d' figured that out and made the change, but we will have to verify that tomorrow.

We wandered by the shops and found Captain's Choice still open at 10:00 PM. There were throngs of people shopping through the markdowns of 50-70% off. We noticed later that they have Farewell Cruise shirts for sale, but we figured we'd take our chances. If they still have some left tomorrow we'll buy a few to use up our shipboard credits. If not, oh well, no big loss.

Back at the room showered with more water pressure than we have ever experienced. It was almost like a cartoon where the character has to hold onto the shower head to keep from being ejected into the room. Being from California we haven't had free water pressure like that in thirty years.

As Crystal Harmony begins her farewell cruise, we are reminded not only of
the wonderful years we have spent on this glorious ship, but also of the
importance of your patronage and loyalty. Please accept this special collector's
edition lapel pin as a symbol of our appreciation and a small token of our
gratitude for sharing this final cruise aboard this noble vessel. We are all sorry to
lose Crystal Harmony from the Crystal Cruises fleet, but are comfortable knowing
that she stays "in the family," as she joins our parent company NYK's cruise
division. Thank you for joining us on this special voyage. We look forward to
welcoming you back on board Crystal Cruises again in the very near future.

An observation we neglected to mention yesterday is the large proportion of guests on board who have never sailed with Crystal before this. The Crystal Society count is just over 400 with the remaining 500 or so being newcomers. Most crewmembers agree that the newcomers were probably booked before it was announced that the ship was leaving the fleet. The repeat passenger count usually hovers in the 200's on this ship, so that count doubled with people trying to get onto the final voyage. We know that many were turned away, which is unfortunate. There are also way more children on board than we have ever seen.

There was a Latino Nuevo buffet around the pool today, but we knew that it would be a zoo with a full shipload of guests to serve. The weather today is near perfection. There is no wind to speak of and the temperature is in the low 70's, if that. We went directly to the Crystal Dining Room for lunch, which was our first stop today.

APPETIZERS
Mexican Guacamole with Tomato Salsa and Crisp Tortilla Chips
Cornets of Ham Filled with Black Pepper Bourson Cheese and Cornichons
Breaded and Golden Fried Crab Croquettes Served with Curry-Lemon Dip
Iced Fruit Cup with Fresh Blueberries

SOUP AND SALAD
Mexican Spicy Corn and Tortilla Soup
Chicken Broth with Liver Dumplings and Fresh Chives
Heart of Butter Lettuce with Marinated White Cabbage Salad and Pineapple Bits

PASTA SPECIAL
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio
Spaghetti with Roasted Garlic, Italian Flat Leaf Parsley, Red Pepper Flakes and Olive Oil

SALAD ENTREES
Classic Caesar Salad - Romaine Lettuce Hearts Tossed with our House Made Caesar
Dressing, Topped with Warm Grilled Chicken Breast and Croutons
Traditional Chef Salad - A Bed of Crisp Iceberg Julienne, Topped with Jarlsberg Cheese,
Roast Beef, Ham and Bell Pepper Rings, Garnished with Jumbo Prawns and Egg Slices,
Served with Thousand Island Dressing

MAIN FARES
Sandwich of the Day
Grilled American Ham and Cheese Garnished with Creamy Potato Salad and Fresh Fruit
Mixed Grill of the Ocean
Grilled Fish Fillets and Assorted Seafood, Served with Parsley Potatoes with Steamed
Vegetables and Dill Beurre Blanc
Chicken Enchiladas
Sautéed Chicken Strips in Spicy Cream Cheese Sauce, Folded in a
Soft Tortilla, Served with Guacamole and Refried Beans
Rum and Brown Sugar Glazed Roasted Pork Leg
With Cilantro Rice, Grilled Pineapples and Cumin Gravy

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Spinach Tagliatelle
With Tomato Sauce and Parmesan Shavings

These items are available at lunch every day in the Dining Room, upon your request:
American Hamburger or Cheeseburger to Your Order, Served on a Toasted Bun with Pickles,
Tomatoes, Sliced Onion Rings and French Fried Potatoes

DESSERTS
Chocolate Pear Charlotte with Mango Sauce
Pavlova with Fresh Fruit and Crème Chantilly
Floating Island with Sauce Anglaise
Sugar-Free Vanilla Panna Cotta
Low-Carb: Strawberry Romanoff
Refreshing Blueberry Lemon Sherbet

We were on the way to being seated when we were stopped to chat with Victor, our headwaiter from previous cruises. That caused us to lose the waiter who was going to seat us, so Bulant took over that duty. He announced that he will be our headwaiter for this cruise. We know him well, but we haven't had him actually serve us before.

Everything we ordered for lunch was very good. The chicken enchiladas were much better than usual, although they still aren't particularly traditional. The dining room was sparsely attended throughout our meal, so the buffet must have been very crowded.

After lunch we decided to stop by Captain's Choice to some Farewell Cruise shirts and check out the sale merchandise. All of the shops are looking quite empty now, but there is still much to choose from. Almost everything except the farewell items are 75% off. Captain's Choice was very crowded with the displays in disarray as one would expect at a final sale. We had some difficulty finding anything in size XL, but eventually did get some sweatshirts with the farewell logo. We also bought some items on sale. The clerks were running low on bags, but it was no big deal to us to cram everything into one bag. That was not so with other guests who wanted more than their share of bags. Under the circumstances we would expect anyone to realize that they are running short on supplies, but apparently that isn't the case.

After loading up on $300 worth of stuff we don't need (and which is free with our shipboard credit), we stopped by the photo display to purchase our boarding photo. They tried vaguely to sell us a large print of Crystal Harmony that has been marked down from $199 to $150. That isn't enough of a price reduction to unload many of those, in our opinion. We were quite amused when one of the saleswomen jokingly asked if we could please return the items we bought during the previous cruise so they would have something to sell.

After wandering by Facets where Shelley told us to go to Apropos to get Polo items on sale, we went over to that shop. The pickings were quite slim and we didn't find anything suitable. Apropos is the shop selling the very expensive evening wear for women and a few items for men. They seemed to be doing a brisk business selling the evening gowns that are quite stunning both in appearance and price.

The shop selling duty free perfumes and such had several bare shelves, but Facets was the most empty. They had finally marked down the signature Guy Buffet items by 75%. Several areas of the shop were completely empty. All of the crystal figurines were 50% off, but we have more than we need of that kind of thing already.

We took our purchases to the room, pausing to get a supply of lotion from a stewardess in the hallway. For some reason we hadn't been supplied with any in the room. Upon return to the room we noticed that they had taken our entire supply of backup amenities. We assume this was because we had moved the tray into the bathtub to get it off the counter, but we didn't intend for it to go away completely.

By this time we were slightly hungry again, so we went up to the pool deck to get some ice cream. They were still cleaning up from the buffet, so the tables in the shade were missing and in disarray, but we sat down anyway for a few minutes. The weather was very nice, but most of the deck area was in the direct sun, so not appealing to us. There were no bartenders or deck hands anywhere in sight, so we had to ask the ice cream man to get us some bottled water from the back. He gladly did so, but that isn't his job. Where were the guys who should be serving the guests?

After our snack we wandered down to see Carolyn, the Crystal Society Hostess. We also added a credit card to our account for express check out at the end of the cruise. Carolyn is leaving Crystal at the end of this cruise, so she is at the end of her reign on board. She does an outstanding job and will certainly be missed. We chatted with her for a bit until another guest arrived to speak to her. She did confirm that although the ship is full, less than half of the guests are repeaters. However, it is significantly more than than the usual 200 repeat guests for this ship. Then we moved over to chat briefly with Randal and have him update our address in the computer system. For some reason only part of their system was changed when we had previously attempted to change the address.

It was nearly 4:00 PM by the time we finished all of our rounds for the day, so it was time to return to the room and wait until it is time to get dressed for dinner. Tonight's dress code is Formal. There is the customary Captain's Gala Welcome in the Palm Court before dinner tonight.

In a television interview this evening, the Hotel Director clarified some of the changes that will be made to Crystal Harmony during dry dock. As we already knew, the Neptune pool will be removed and the sliding roof eliminated. The pool area will be converted to a larger Lido restaurant and the Japanese spa will be added on the deck space created by filling in the former roof opening. He stated that very few changes will be made to the other public rooms or to the staterooms except minor things to adjust for Japanese tastes. It was interesting to hear about how the ship will be turned over or "sold" to back to the parent company. Crystal representatives will go through each public room and stateroom to inventory each separately. Then, the Japanese representatives will be escorted through each and every stateroom and public room to verify the account for everything on a room by room basis as each is turned over. That does sound like an easier way to do it rather than trying to collect everything into piles elsewhere.

The Captain's party was a usual, so nothing really to report about it. We sat in the Vista Lounge section rather than in the Palm Court where the main party is held. Drinks are free in either room, so it really doesn't make much difference unless one is dying to view the Captain's speech in person.

Tonight's menu is a duplication of the menu's format and content from Crystal Harmony's first cruise in July, 1990. We're not so sure the content is the same because we are certain they did not feature low-carb choices back then, but the format and layout of the menu was very different than it usually is. Fact is, it was printed very plainly in type so small it was hard to read. Some changes definitely are for the better. However, it was fun idea to do it.

APPETIZERS
Iced Malossol Caviar with Buckwheat Blinis or Melba Toast
Pate de Foie Gras on a Warm Corn Crepe with Truffle Sauce
Chilled Cocktail of Fresh Strawberries and Tropical Fruits with Grand Marnier
Smoked Salmon Rose on Malibu Baby Lettuce

SOUP
Double Oxtail Consommé with Wild Rice, Gold Dust and Puff Pastry Chester Sticks

SALAD
Selected California Field Lettuce, Baby Tomatoes and
Herb Goat Cheese with Raspberry Vinaigrette

MAIN COURSES
Broiled Fresh Maine Lobster with Melted Wasabi Butter,
Oriental Fried Rice and Broccoli Florets with Basil Hollandaise
Grilled Medallions of Wisconsin Veal in Saffron Beurre Blanc
with Tomato Confetti and Capellini al Pesto
Beef Wellington - Tenderloin of Beef with Duxel, Baked in Puff Pastry,
Sauce Périgourdine, Steamed Asparagus Spears, Stuffed Yellow Squash, Chateau Potatoes
Sautéed Breast of Wild Oregon Pheasant on Morel Sauce, Baby Squash,
Florets of Broccoli Capellini al Pesto

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Grilled Asparagus and Parsnips with Glazed Sweet Potato Soufflé and Broccoli with Red Wine Reduction

SIDE ORDERS
Broccoli Florets, Steamed Asparagus Spears, Chateau Potatoes
Oriental Fried Rice, Capellini al Pesto

SWEET FINALE
Chef's Suggestion: "Délice au Cafe"
White Chocolate Coffee Cake with Raspberry Sauce
Almond-Lemon Tart with Whipped Cream and Forest Berries
Crunchy Vanilla Mousse with Fudge Sauce
Truffles and Petit Fours
Low-Carb: Yogurt Terrine with Fruit Coulis
Sugar-Free: Blueberry Turnover
Assortment of Fruit in Season

Food review: The menu may have been a bit more authentic from 1990 than we would have liked because the options were quite limited in comparison to today's menus. The fruit appetizer was nicely presented and everything on the plate was actually edible for the first time. The soup was not at all what was described. In fact, it was a cream soup of some sort, not consommé and not oxtail for sure. We're guessing it was cream of broccoli or something like that. Nobody said anything when it was brought out, so we have no clue what happened. Until we returned to the room and checked the menu again did we realize that there was no cream soup offered on the menu. The soup that was served was good though. The salad was satisfactory, but not really anything special. The sherbet course was very tasty, but they need to do something to keep it frozen until it is served. Usually, including tonight, the scoop is at least half melted before it even gets to us. The pasta course was very good and would have been outstanding had it not sat under a warming light for too long. We chose the lobster entree by default and didn't expect much, quite frankly. The portion was the smallest lobster tail we have ever seen, but it tasted fine. The fried rice under it was an odd choice, but had a nice flavor, what there was of it. Oh, and there were two nearly raw broccoli florets on the plate to finish it off. Dessert was quite good topped with fresh berries and whipped cream.

We were served by Santiago from Argentina, and his assistant, Pablo from Chile. Both of them seem quite personable and did a fine job. The service was so speedy that we were finished eating before 10:00 PM. If it hadn't been for Bulant stopping to chat several times it wouldn't have even taken that long and we would have had over an hour to kill before the show. Bulant is leaving ship life after this cruise. This is the first time he has actually been our headwaiter, but we have known and talked to him many times over the past several years. He does a wonderful job and is always friendly.

Tonight's entertainment is the lavish production show, "Million Dollar Musicals". Let's just say that tonight's performance was not the best we have ever seen. There has been a problem with the sound on this ship for years and there still is, unfortunately. A few of the costumes are a bit worse for wear, but the vast majority still look like new. Although this is our favorite production show, we have seen it way too many times. When the performance itself isn't top notch, this show really suffers as it did tonight.

A couple we know from previous cruises said basically the same thing about the show as we have reported. They told us that tonight is the last time they will have to see this show for a while and they were happy for that. We'd hate to hear the reaction after tomorrow's aged "Rock Around the Clock", assuming they even attend at all.

There is nothing to report about the weather other than it is near perfection. The sea remained flat all day and there was no wind across the deck when we stepped out after the party. It was neither too hot nor too cold. As we said, perfect!

By the way, we learned today through various conversations with crew members who would know such things, that they are making every effort to keep things as normal as possible for the guests. However, chaos and hysteria reigns behind the scenes where frantic packing and sorting is going on. The end is near and it is catching up with them. When we passed by the shops after closing, the shelves were quite bare in some sections. There were only two jackets and a few shirts in the men's section of Apropos, for example, and they had spread out piles of silver martini sets on the empty shelves in Facets. The tables that were full of farewell shirts this afternoon were completely bare except for a display of a few hats and a sweater or two. We'll be quite surprised if there is enough merchandise remaining in some of the shops to bother keeping them open until the last day. To the ship's credit though, the empty shops are the only sign of this being the final cruise. They appear to be skimping on the bathroom amenities a bit, but we are not aware of anything being completely unavailable at this point.

Cabo San Lucas is nestled on the southernmost tip of the Baja Peninsula, where the cool currents of the Pacific Ocean meet the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez. Commanding rock formations, timeless desert and a translucent sea provide a compelling introduction to this tranquil resort town.

Here, mile upon mile of golden sandy coves dot the shoreline while marlin and sailfish frolic in the waters offshore. Laze on a deserted beach, explore the undersea world or discover bustling shops and markets for tempting treasures such as silver, jewelry and wooden sculptures.

Today's weather is again perfection. It is neither too hot, nor too cold and it is just breezy enough to maintain comfort. There are no other ships in port with us, so anyone going ashore should have the place to themselves. Needless to say, that does not include us.

Our first destination was the Lido for lunch. Since the Lido serves essentially the same menu as in the dining room, we have included that menu. In addition to the dining room items, the Lido always serves a made-to-order pasta, a special salad, some sort of carved roast (today it was veal), and rotisserie chicken that is always outstanding.

APPETIZERS
Steamed Fresh Black Mussels in Light White Wine Sauce, Served with Warm Garlic Bread
Tomato Half Filled with Assorted Seafood, Served with Fresh Green Asparagus
Italian Salami with Artichoke Salad
Iced Fruit Cup with Fresh Mandarins and Plain Yogurt

SOUP AND SALAD
Clear Vegetable Broth with Fennel
Cream of Cauliflower with Whole Wheat Croutons
Chilled Cream of Mango and Non-Fat Yogurt
Heart of Iceberg Lettuce with Sprouts, Avocados, Strawberries, Citrus Fillets and Grapes

PASTA SPECIAL
Shell Pasta alla Calabrese with Tomatoes, Capers, Anchovies and Olives

SALAD ENTREES
Farmer's Vegetable Salad
Diced Tomatoes, Iceberg Lettuce, Crumbled Feta Cheese, Cucumbers,
Red and Green Bell Peppers, Red Onions, Served with a Light Herb Vinaigrette
Avocado Half Stuffed with Curried Tuna Salad
Served with Assorted Summer Greens and Sliced Tomatoes with Thousand Island Dressing

MAIN FARES
Grilled Turkey Cutlet
On Honey-Green Peppercorn Sauce, Served with a Macédoine of Fresh Vegetables
and Shallot Mashed Potatoes
Pan-Seared Fillet of Fresh Trout
Accompanied by Chardonnay Beurre Blanc, Leek and Carrots and New Potatoes
Six-Star Steak Sandwich
Grilled Sirloin Steak in Toasted Onion Bread, with Tomato Slices, Corn-Leek-Cabbage
Slaw, French Fried Potatoes and Thousand Island Dressing on the Side
West Indian Lamb Curry
In Vegetable Couscous Ring with Fried Bananas, Pappadams and Traditional Condiments

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Vegetarian Sandwich
Marinated Grilled Eggplant, Zucchini, Tomatoes, Onions and Fennel on Grilled Rye
Bread, Served with Potato Chips and Tossed Greens

DESSERTS
Irish Coffee Cake
Lime Meringue Pie with Chocolate Ice Cream
Strawberry Parfait with Fruit Coulis
Sugar-Free: Orange Pudding
Low-Carb: Vanilla Pound Cake with Low-Carb Vanilla Ice Cream and Plum Compote
Vanilla, Chocolate Chip, Cinnamon Swirl or Maple Walnut Ice Cream
with Your Choice of Butterscotch, Mango and Vanilla Sauce
Freshly Frozen, Nonfat White Chocolate Mousse or Strawberry Yogurt
Grape Sherbet
Selection of International Cheeses Served with Crackers
Assortment of Fruit in Season

The Lido opened for lunch half an hour early due to our 11:00 AM arrival in Cabo San Lucas. The clearance announcement was made at 11:30 PM, but the Lido was still full when we arrived just after noon. Our food was satisfactory, but only the roast chicken was anything worth mentioning as above average.

After lunch we returned to the room to sit on the verandah to await our haircut appointments with Benji at 2:00 PM. Danzyl arrived during that time to chat about a variety of things unrelated to the ship. He used to work in the big sail-shaped hotel in Dubai and he said he would bring us a DVD about it later if it was OK with us, which of course it was.

We arrived a few minutes late for our appointment because Danzyl was still chatting at 2:00 PM, but since we only had to walk straight up two flights of stairs to the salon it was no big deal. Benji was waiting for us at the reception desk and ushered us directly into the salon. The salon section of the facility here is very small, but she said that the remodeled salon on the Symphony is even smaller. It took over a semi-covered area that used to house a ping-pong table just outside of the gym. Apparently the spa is a much bigger money-maker than the salon, especially on shorted cruises. She confirmed the chaos behind the scenes trying to get everything packed up and sent back to the Steiner warehouse in Miami. However, first they have to sort out what belong to Crystal and what belongs to Steiner Salons. Sounds like quite a chore to us.

We chatted and showed her the updated house photos we had promised to bring with us. She will be going to join her husband, Marco, on the Symphony the day after the end of this cruise. No rest in between at all. She arrived in Fort Lauderdale at 6:30 AM and starts work on board the Symphony the same day at 1:00 PM.

After getting haircuts short enough that they will probably last until our next cruise in January, we returned to the room. Danzyl arrived a few minutes later with the DVD he wanted us to see, so we watched that and chatted about working in Dubai. Let's just say that it wasn't exactly a picnic most of the time. Working for Crystal is a much more pleasant experience to say the least.

It was almost 4:00 PM by this time, so we went down to the lobby to drop off a birthday card at the desk, then went up for ice cream by the pool. They were already setting up the tables for tonight's casual dining option, so things were in a bit of disarray and the deck stewards were busy doing that instead of serving guests.

Earlier today we noticed that the Captain's Choice shop had been emptied out and closed for the rest of the cruise. They moved the remaining stock, what there was of it, into the other three shops. The perfume section of one of the shops took up the sundries from Captain's Choice since there had been a run on perfume that cleaned out the supply. The logo wear moved into Apropos where the men's section was wiped clean two days ago. Still, this is the only sign that the end is near. Everything else is as normal from a guest's viewpoint. The closed shop was sparkling clean inside, not in disarray at all. We were told earlier today that the office had given very strict orders that guests were not to be deprived of anything or told something was not available just to facilitate packing up offices and stock. So far, that has definitely been the case as nothing is lacking that we are aware of.

After our snack we returned to the room where we stayed until sailing time, 8:00 PM. The traditional sail away music was played with "Time to Say Goodbye" (click here to listen) added because it is the last time Crystal Harmony will visit Cabo San Lucas. We assume the same will apply in the two remaining ports. If anyone had been outside to hear it, they might have been moved by it.

Casual dining was offered by the Neptune Pool tonight and appeared to be quite popular. We sat in the Palm Court waiting for dinner time, only about 20 minutes. The usual 50's snacks were served that are always cute...tiny bite-sized hamburgers and hot dogs, for example. We were not offered drinks until we were ready to leave.

The remaining three shops were jammed when we passed by on the way to the dining room. Since they were only open for about an hour today people were clamoring to buy things at 75% off. We were told later that they had sold over 300 of the dining room map chargers in just an hour after they were marked down to $19 (originally around $75.00). There are none left except the ones actually used in the dining room. The perfume selection has dwindled to one small display, although the prices are only 50% off. We assume at this rate they will nearly sell out by the last day.

APPETIZERS
Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail with American Cocktail Sauce
Chicken Quesadillas Served with Roasted Pineapple Salsa and Hoisin Sauce
Grilled Herb Marinated Rabbit Loin on Fresh Corn-Tomato Salad
Iced Cup of Assorted Fruit with Figs and Vodka

SOUP AND SALAD
Midwest Sweet Corn Soup with Bell Pepper Confit and Crisp Leek Straw
Chicken Broth with Matzo Balls
Iced Watermelon Gazpacho with Cilantro and Lime
Las Vegas Style Caesar Salad - Red and Green Lettuce Tossed with Caesar Dressing
Heart of Boston Lettuce with Marinated White Cabbage, Grapes and Golden Fried Cheese Balls

PASTA SPECIAL
Involtini di Melanzane e Linguine
Baked Eggplant Roll Stuffed with Linguine, Tomatoes, Swiss Cheese and Fresh Herbs

SALAD ENTREE
Grilled Port Medallion Salad
Cucumber-Potato Salad, with Marinated Artichoke on Radicchio Leaves, Topped with
Grilled Pork Medallion, Garnished with Fried Shallots

MAIN FARES
Roasted American Prime Rib From Black Angus Beef
Served with Natural Gravy, Creamed Horseradish, Boiled Tomato, Corn on the Cob,
and Baked Potato with Sour Cream, Chives and Bacon Bits
Fresh Herb-Crusted Grouper Fillets
On Braised Fresh Artichokes, Topped with Mushrooms, Tomato Strips and Asparagus
Tips, Potato Balls and Champagne Beurre Blanc
Grilled Canadian Venison Medallions
Served on Game Sauce with Poached Pear Filled with Cranberry-Apple Relish, Celery
Puree and Brussels Sprouts
The Blue Plate Special: Traditional American Meatloaf
Oven Baked with Brown Onion Sauce, Served with Green Peas and Carrots
and Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Upon your request, these Traditional Main Fares are also available: Grilled Salmon Fillet, Served with
Steamed Vegetables, Mashed Potatoes and Champagne Beurre Blanc or Roasted Chicken Breast, Served
with Broiled Tomato, Steamed Vegetables, Crisp Bacon Stripes, Baked Potato and Herb Flavored Gravy

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Twice Baked Potatoes
Filled with Three Cheeses, Served on Vegetable Spaghetti with
Garlic Flavored Tomato Sauce and Basil Oil

SWEET FINALE
Banana Split with Toasted Almonds and Chocolate Sauce
Strawberry Cheesecake
Chocolate Fudge Brownie Sundae
Low-Carb: Blueberry Mousse Cake
Sugar-Free Lemon Yogurt Timbale
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season

Food review: This menu has got to go. Almost nobody likes it. We don't find it terribly objectionable, but the choices are always average at best. Tonight was no exception. We loaded up on appetizers because we know from experience that none of the entrees are all that good. The chicken quesadillas are an Asian item in flavor, but they warranted ordering a second serving. The shrimp cocktail was also quite fresh and tasty. The fruit cup contained too many hard, tasteless chunks to be rated anything above average. The corn soup was adequate, but needed salt. The watermelon gazpacho was way too watery and lacked a distinct flavor, although it was edible. The salad was as expected, nothing more. We were surprised that the pasta course both looked and tasted better than the description made it sound. Both entrees were decidedly average, especially the tough, flavorless prime rib, half of which was fat. The fish was satisfactory, but the portion was tiny. Luckily there isn't much they can do to ruin a banana split, so that was a pleasant way to end the meal.

We chatted several times tonight with Bulant. He wanted to know who our favorite waiter of all time is, but we couldn't pinpoint anyone specific. We like several of them for various reasons, so we can't choose a favorite overall. We did tell him one we specifically do not care for, which surprised him. We agree he is probably a nice person, but we find his service lacking and his manner rather fake. Otherwise, everyone who has served us has been just fine by us in their own way.

Tonight's entertainment is the production show "Rock Around the Clock". There was also a Sock Hop at 9:45 PM, plus a "Rock 'n' Roll Madness Cabaret" starring the Pianist with a Twist, Jon Courtenay. We did not attend the Sock Hop and reluctantly decided to go to the production show because we figured this would be the last time we'd ever have to see it, thank God. This is the oldest show still running. We assume that is only because they have a ship wide theme with the staff in costumes, a special menu, juke box, etc. They do go all out for the evening including the only midnight buffet, which is actually rather fun at times. However, the show usually lacks energy. That was not the case tonight. We were pleasantly surprised by the energetic and precise performances, the likes of which we haven't seen in this production for years. It just goes to show what a little enthusiasm on the part of the talent can do to bring life to a very tired production. Too bad this isn't always the case, but we can be glad that we were able to witness one final performance that left a good taste in our mouth.

We contemplated staying for the midnight comedy show, but the lounge was too hot tonight and we were rather uncomfortable. Also, there was a distinct odor of cigarette smoke in the area, which is very unusual. In any case, we decided it wasn't worth the effort to hang around for another hour.

The 50's midnight buffet was in progress when we passed the Bistro. Tamas tried to get us to come in, but we passed. After all, we just had six selections from the dinner menu an hour ago. Waiters were walking about with trays of pizza that smelled very tempting and the popcorn and shakes are always good choices. We did manage to restrain ourselves.

We were amused to receive a survey regarding various ideas for potential new production shows. Just the fact that they had one listed that is totally operatic shows they have no clue what their audience wants. Almost nobody shows up for classical performances as it is and a glossy production isn't going to make it any more appealing to the masses. We'll probably skip the survey since we would prefer not to invest ourselves in anything that might give us some hope for the future of productions on Crystal ships.

Internet service was not available tonight, as usual for this part of the world.

The massive lighthouse of El Faro welcomes you to the thriving seaport of Mazatlán. Located on a peninsula just south of the Tropic of Cancer, this fast-developing resort is a fishing and sportsperson's paradise. Supposedly there are as many fishing boats as tennis courts here! Offshore, scores of sailfish and marlin frolic in the temperate waters while para-sailors drift lazily overhead.

Mazatlán offers a rich diversity of activities. Feel free to shop at the colorful market and folk art shops, explore the charming town plaza, relax at a fine resort hotel or try your luck sportfishing.

Once again, the weather is near perfection. This is the first time of many visits to this port when the temperature wasn't 90+ with humidity to match. It is only in the low 80's with reasonable humidity. It is sunny with just a few wispy clouds overhead.

We were startled awake this morning by an unannounced fire drill for the crew. We have never witnessed a drill for the in-port manning crew. Later we learned that they have to be able to evacuate the ship in ports from both the pier side and the tenders, just in case. Basically, they have to cover all of the bases.

We started off, as usual, with lunch in the dining room after chatting briefly with Randal and Bernard in the lobby. We had never been formally introduced to Bernard, although we have seen him on board as a performer many times.

Almost all of the window tables were occupied right away, but the remainder of the room wasn't full by any means. The beautiful weather probably lured more guests ashore than usual.

APPETIZERS
Swiss Alps Air-Dried Beef with Cabbage Salad and Parmesan Cheese Shavings
Avocado and Endive Cocktail with Sherry Vinaigrette
Warm Mixed Seafood and Spinach Tart with Mixed Garden Greens and Herb Sauce
Chilled Mandarin and Pomme Granante Cup with Apple Barrel Snaps

SOUP AND SALAD
Roasted Garlic Cream Soup with Fresh Herbs and Croutons
Beef Pot au Feu - Beef Broth with Meat, Vegetables and Pasta
Cold Cream of Sweet Cherries
Heart of Iceberg Lettuce with Marinated Cauliflower Salad and Toasted Sesame Seeds

PASTA SPECIAL
Spaghetti and Meatballs
With Fresh Tomato-Basil Sauce and Freshly Grated Pecorino-Romano Cheese

SALAD ENTREES
The Chopped Garden Salad
Crunchy Garden Greens with Potatoes, Mushrooms, Cucumber, Olives and Garlic-Herb
Marinated Chicken Breast, Served with Herb Tomato Dressing
Ocean Garden Basket
Snow Crab Claw, Baby Shrimp and Jumbo Shrimp, Served in a Giant Lettuce Basket with
Thousand Island Dressing

MAIN FARES
Californian Cioppino
Seafood Stew with Mussels, Prawns, Clams and Fresh Fish, Flavored with Herbs,
Vegetables and Tomato Broth, Served with Toasted Garlic Bread
Sandwich of the Day - The Tuna Melt
Tuna Salad on Toasted English Muffin with Melted American Cheese, Served with Fruit
Garnish and Country Fried Potatoes
Barbecued Baby Back Pork Ribs
Served with Vegetable Fried Rice, Snow Peas, Corn on the Cob and Barbecue Sauce
Beef Tacos
Spicy Ground Beef in a Taco Shell, Served with Guacamole, Refried Beans,
and Traditional Condiments: Sour Cream, Cheddar Cheese, Chopped Tomatoes, Onions,
Bell Peppers, Scallions and Fresh Cilantro

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Vegetarian Pizza
With Tomatoes, Provolone Cheese, Spinach, Corn, Mushrooms, Herbs and Garlic

DESSERTS
Honey-Almond Tart with Sauce Anglaise
Passion Fruit Roulade with Coconut Ice Cream
Black Forrest Cake
Sugar-Free Yogurt Fruit Terrine
Low-Carb: Cocoa Mousse with Poached Pear
Vanilla, Cookies 'n' Cream, Almond Praline, or Black Cherry Vanilla ice Cream
with your choice of Raspberry, Mango or Chocolate Sauce
Freshly Frozen, Nonfat Butter Pecan or Cappuccino Yogurt
Refreshing Lychee Nut Sherbet
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Selection of International Cheeses, Served with Crackers

We're not quite sure where the description of the fruit appetizer came from, but what was served had nothing whatsoever to do with it. There was nothing wrong with it, but it wasn't as described. Everything else was satisfactory. The tacos were the closest rendition of the real thing we have ever seen on this ship, but one would never recognize them out of context.

There isn't much to report about lunch itself, but we talked extensively Walter, the maitre d', outside of the door when we were leaving. He has been working on ships for 26 years and is leaving after this cruise. He told us how he started on the Sagafjord and how he was recruited by a friend to join Crystal at the very beginning. We weren't aware that originally the ship had two seatings for breakfast and lunch also. Walter said they quickly learned that wasn't what the guests wanted and that the Lido was way too small to handle the demand. Two-seating breakfast and lunch quickly gave way to the current open seating arrangement.

We also learned that the total cost of the upcoming remodel is around $50 million, with $25 million going to replace all of the engines, among other mechanical systems. The ship will be without power, so there will be no meals served on board during the dry dock and no one will be living on board. Meals will be served in tents set up pier side. Ordinarily they would serve meals on deck, but the pool deck will be an area of major reconstruction, so that is impossible this time. All of the major construction will be done in Victoria. As the ship crosses to Japan, carpet layers will be on board replacing all of the carpeting. The ship then begins sailing around Japan with a few guests on board in early January. These first cruises will take the ship to various Japanese cities to show it off to local dignitaries and such. We know already that the ship is beloved in Japan, so it will embark on a new life with even more prestige.

We were surprised to learn that the moment breakfast is over on disembarkation day, all of the chine, glassware, and food will be packed up and offloaded in Los Angeles before the ship sails for Victoria at 9:00 PM. Only the silver will stay on board. Everything else will be sent to the Club 2100 to be methodically packed, labeled and hauled ashore.

After our chat, we took a walk around the Sun deck to view the scenery, such as it is. The water in this port is disgusting and the port area is extremely noisy due to work going on tearing up the pavement. So, even though the weather is pleasant, sitting outside on the verandah isn't a pleasant proposition. Judging by the crowds around the Seahorse pool this afternoon, most people either returned to the ship very early or never went ashore at all. There are no other cruise ships in port today.

At sail away time we stepped out onto our verandah to view the red sunset on the clouds in the distance. Danzyl was on the adjacent open deck, so he came over and chatted around the partition. He said that many of the long-time crew members will be more upset than they currently realize when the ship leaves the fleet. We agree. To many of them, this has been home for up to fifteen years. We believe reality will hit after the current guests have disembarked and then there are no new impending arrivals to prepare for. The lucky ones are those who are leaving the ship in Los Angeles as they won't have to experience that aspect of the end.

Tonight's dress code is Informal for the Crystal Society Party. Walter confirmed that they are planning to eliminate or at least reduce the Informal attire completely. It is too fine a line to enforce and it has been decided to do away with it and keep only Formal and Casual dress codes. We have long felt that the Informal requirement was a waste and only served to take up more precious space in the luggage. We know many guests enjoy dressing up for formal evenings, so this does seem like a reasonable compromise toward satisfying everyone. Unfortunately, the policy change was not applied to Crystal Harmony, so we're stuck with it one more time and on a port day, too.

The Crystal Society Party was held in the Palm Court at 7:45 PM. There was only one party for both seatings, so we know there are less than 450 repeaters present. Carolyn gave her final speech as Crystal Society hostess and introduced to two top cruisers, each with well over 100 cruises each.

APPETIZERS
Golden Fried Lobster Roll with Mustard Plum Sauce
Sautéed Veal Sweetbread Roses, Served Balsamic Tossed Lettuce, Garnished with Crispy Potato Slaw
Freshly Opened Oysters, Served on Crushed Ice with Red Wine Vinaigrette and Cocktail Sauce
Iced Pineapple, Banana and Coconut Cup with Dark Rum

SOUP AND SALAD
Cream of California Ripened Tomato with Basil Foam
Pheasant Consommé with Pistachio Chicken Quenelles
Chilled Cream of Tropical Fruits
Selected Mesclun of Fancy Lettuce with Granny Smith, Endive, Shaved Gruyere Cheese and Apple Cider Dressing
Tossed Iceberg Lettuce with Bella Vista Dressing, Topped with Bacon and Chopped Eggs

SALAD ENTREE
Turkey Medallion Salad
On a Bed of Crisp Greens, Grapefruit Segments and Green Beans, Sprinkled with
Toasted Almonds, Tossed with Fat-Free Papaya-Mustard Vinaigrette

MAIN FARES
Chef Manfred's Childhood Favorite - Wiener Schnitzel
Breaded Veal Cutlet, Deep-Fried in Clarified Butter, Served with Traditional Garnish,
Garden Green Peas, Carrots and Parsley Potatoes
Broiled Fresh Blue Nose
With Lemon-Caper Vinaigrette, Served on Lobster-Potato Hash with Glazed Dill
Cucumbers, Topped with Petit Herb Salad
Slow Roasted Rack of Pork
With Anna Potatoes and Cardamom Flavored Lentil Stew, Caraway Seed Gravy
Combination of Seared Scallops and Jumbo Shrimp
With Light Tarragon Sabayon on a Bed of Saffron Risotto, Served with Broccoli Roses

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Chicken Fried Rice Orange Balls
On Sautéed Leek with Tarragon-Tomato Butter Sauce

Upon your request, these Traditional Main Fares are also available:
Sirloin Steak Served with Steamed Vegetables, Baked Potato and Black Pepper Hollandaise or
Grilled Black Bass with Carrots, Mashed Potatoes and Chablis Beurre Blanc

SWEET FINALE
Citrus Soufflé Cake with Lemon Sauce and Mango Sherbet
Sunset Cake
Nougatine Crème Brulee
Low-Carb: Berry Clafouti
Sugar-Free Coconut Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
On the Lighter Side: Freshly Frozen, Nonfat New York Cheesecake Yogurt

Food review: The lobster roll appetizer was outstanding, freshly fried and crispy with a slightly spicy flavor. The chilled soup was not at all a cream of anything, rather it was bits of fruit in fruit juice. The flavor was pleasant, but we're surprised at how many menu items have come out of the kitchen completely different than the description on the menu during this cruise. The salad was better with balsamic dressing substituted for the watery Bella Vista dressing. The pasta was outstanding, but even a double portion only contained one 2", thin slice of chicken. The fish entree was also very good and nicely presented. We ordered the vegetarian entree just to try it. We'll give them some credit for trying to make something interesting, but it was God-awful. Also, the portion consisted of two 1" balls of rice, three thin slices of sautéed leek, and some tomato sauce. Apparently the chef believes that vegetarians are also dieting. Since we were not, we ordered dessert, which we have had before and already expected it to be quite tasty, which it was.

Santiago keeps prodding us to say the food is great or wonderful when we say it is very good or "fine", which is our usual answer. The fact is, the food is really quite good, but we have seen these same menus for the past ten years and so we know what to expect. Besides which, the food isn't nearly as good as it was ten years ago, although the Harmony does turns out a more consistently tasty product in general.

It does appear that reality is finally setting in for the crew members who are leaving. Bulant talked a bit about being anxious about what he will do when he moves to Sydney with his wife. He already has a job lined up, but nonetheless he is still nervous. That is to be expected, of course, and we certainly do sympathize with all of them. They are all beginning to pack up their stuff even if they are staying through the dry dock. Since they will have to move into a hotel in Victoria, nothing may be left on board as it has always been in the past. Basically, everything owned by Crystal or its crew has to be removed completely upon arrival at the shipyard.

Walking through the upper lobby area, the shops had notices saying they were closed for the rest of the evening for "crew shopping". They didn't close early or anything like that, but they were open to crew only later than the usual 9:00 PM closing time. When we checked back after the show, Apropos still seemed to have sufficient merchandise remaining, including farewell attire, but all of the perfume and much of the casual wear in the Crystal Collection was completely wiped out. Facets still has a few of the more expensive pieces of crystal left, and the extremely expensive jewelry remains where it has been for the past fifteen years. Unless they lower the prices significantly more than they have already, those beautiful necklaces will probably still be in those displays long after the ship has become the Asuka II.

Tonight's entertainment features Crystal Cruises "Entertainer of the Year," Comedy Ventriloquist, Mark Merchant, and the Music and Comedy of Jimmy Travis. Jimmy performed on the very first cruise aboard Crystal Harmony. Both acts were very entertaining, but we'll give Mark the edge tonight because he had more new material than Jimmy did.

Embraced by rugged tropical mountains on one side and the beautiful Banderas Bay on the other, Puerto Vallarta is second only to Acapulco when it comes to the Mexican Riviera's leading resort cities.

White stucco houses are capped with red-tile roofs and surrounded by bougainvillea-lined cobblestone streets. Native women who beat their laundry along riverbanks as busy fishing boats return to port illustrate a lifestyle that has been maintained for decades.

Nearby, sophisticated restaurants, luxury hotels, smart boutiques and lively nightclubs bear testament to the changes wrought on this quiet seaside city since the 1960s. Life here has never been quite the same since the filming of the movie "Night of the Iguana" and the worldwide publicity accorded the romance of its stars, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor.

Puerto Vallarta brims with life. Shop for leather goods, shell and silver jewelry, hand-embroidered blouses or painted figures from Oaxaca. Explore cobblestone streets and picturesque alleyways filled with the scents and bustling energy
of Mexico.

There was a lot of banging and scraping from the deck above us this morning, so sleeping soundly wasn't an option beyond 10:00 AM. In any case, we left the room at lunch time and went up to the Lido. Many of the same items from the dining room menu were available in the Lido, so we thought we would find a bit more variety in the Lido, which we did to a certain extent.

APPETIZERS
Golden Fried Calamari with Sauce Aïoli
Stuffed Roast Beef Roll with French Vegetable Salad
Cucumber Boat with Jumbo Prawns, Served with Cajun Sauce
Chilled Fruit Cup with Orange Segments, Strawberry and Pineapple

SOUP AND SALAD
Cream of Young Leek with Toasted Almonds
Vegetable Consommé Mille Fanti
Chilled Yogurt and Kadota Fig Soup
Heart of Boston Lettuce with Mushrooms, Daicon and Kernel Corn

PASTA SPECIAL
Whole Wheat Linguini with Tomato, Roasted Eggplant, Fontina Cheese and Fresh Basil

SALAD ENTREES
Salad Niçoise
Tuna Flakes, Anchovies, Tomatoes, Olives, Sardines, Green Beans,
Onion Rings, Boiled Eggs and Potatoes on a Bed of Crisp Lettuce, Served with
Traditional French Dressing
Turkey Black Bean Salsa Roll
Black Bean Salsa Spread on Warm Flour Tortilla,
Topped with Thinly Sliced Turkey and Coriander on Summer Greens

MAIN FARES
Fish and Chips
Fresh Cod Fish Fillets Dipped in Beer Batter and Golden Fried, Served with
Crisp Slaw, French Fried Potatoes, Sauce Rémoulade and Malt Vinegar
Sandwich of the Day - French Dip
Thinly Sliced Roast Beef on a Toasted Baguette with Dijon Mustard and Sautéed Onions,
Accompanied by Natural Dipping Jus and French Fried Potatoes
Grilled German Bratwurst
Grilled Sausages, Served with Lyonnaise Potatoes, Sauerkraut and Bacon Gravy
Spicy Orange Chicken
Sliced Chicken in a Spicy Orange Sauce, Served with Steamed Broccoli and Sticky Rice

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Home Made Fresh Vegetable Strudel
Served with Creamy Basil Sauce and Steamed Vegetables

These items are available every day in the Dining Room, upon your request:
American Hamburger of Cheeseburger Grilled to Your Order, Served on a Toasted Bun
with Pickles, Tomatoes, Sliced Onion Rings and French Fried Potatoes

DESSERTS
Viennese Poppy Seed Cake a la Mode
Ice Bomb Victoria with Fruit Sauce
Caramel Chocolate Napolèon
Low-Carb: Frozen Peppermint Soufflé
Sugar-Free Lemon Curd Tartlet with Diet Ice Cream
Vanilla, Chocolate, Double Caramel Decadence or Macadamia Nut Ice Cream
With your choice of Raspberry, Mango or Chocolate Topping
Freshly Frozen Nonfat New York Cheesecake or Double Dutch Chocolate Yogurt
Refreshing Papaya Sherbet
An Assortment of Fruit in Season
International Cheeses Served with Crackers and Biscuits

Today's weather is again perfect, although it is slightly warmer than it has been so far. However, that is not to say it is uncomfortably hot, either. We sat outside at the Lido and were quite happy. Bernard and Randal joined us to chat about various things of no interest to anyone except the four of us. Poor Randal is trying to adjust to the "cold" winters in Sydney where it wouldn't be considered cold by anyone other than a native of Costa Rica. All of us had the spicy orange chicken that was decidedly average, but edible.

After lunch we took a stroll around the upper deck. The construction that started a month ago on the pier side has progressed. It appears they are building an additional marina or another space for a cruise ship. They have made quite a bit of progress since we were hear last month, but they still have a long way to go. The Sapphire Princess is docked at the adjacent pier and the Norwegian Star is anchored off shore with tender service to our pier.

The shop girls were busily restocking the Crystal Collection casual wear shop. The perfume shelves were again filled, but we think they had removed the stock last night rather than sell it at a further discount to the crew. What has returned appears to be the same as it was before last night in the perfume department, but it looks like they have brought out some new clothing and handbags. The only shop that looks sparsely stocked now is Facets. About half of the shelves are now bare.

As usual, we did not go ashore today. The weather certainly is pleasant enough to do so, but we'd rather enjoy the comforts of Crystal Harmony. We ventured up to the grill around 5:00 PM when we decided we were starving. They were moving the furniture around to prepare for tomorrow's American buffet by the pool and the deck area was filthy, so we didn't hang around after eating.

Since this is the final sail away from a port, we went up to the top deck to watch the sailing. Many guests had the same idea, which was nice. It is such a pity when nobody comes out for the sailings since in our opinion they are a highlight of cruising. As usual for this cruise, they played both "It's a Wonderful World" and "Time to Say Goodbye," which was particularly poignant tonight as we sailed into the darkness.

We found Costa alone on the aft deck contemplating his career and life after the ships. He said it was mostly remembering the fun he had with his shipmates that was getting to him. It must be very difficult for those who have been on board for years or even from the beginning.

We returned to the room to get dressed for dinner, then started out toward the dining room at 8:15 PM. Helena was in the hallway and she stopped us to chat for a few minutes. She hasn't been on the ships as long as some, so it isn't quite as emotional for her. She will be leaving the ship in Victoria, as are many of the crew who aren't leaving immediately in Los Angeles. We asked what they are doing with the things in the guest staterooms that have Crystal's name or logo on them, but she said they haven't received any information at all about that yet. We think it would be nice if they let the guests take things like that home, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards at the moment.

Cetin, our butler from several cruises back, saw us and rushed over to talk to us. He said he had tried to come along the first day when Costa and Danzyl came in to greet us, but they shut the door before he could get in. He is also retiring from the ships after this cruise, but he is keeping the door open "just in case" life in Turkey doesn't work out. At this point he expects to be a food and beverage manager in a hotel, but of course, nothing is certain until it happens. He seems to have his thoughts together, so it isn't too traumatic for him. He said that it is time to move on and this is a good kick to get him moving away from ship life. He invited us to "just drop in" sometime in Turkey to see him. Needless to say we will not be "dropping in", but visiting in general isn't unreasonable to expect.

Tonight's dress code is Casual. We were fifteen minutes late for dinner because our conversation with Cetin continued longer than expected, but nobody seemed to mind. We weren't hungry at all, still full from our cheeseburgers from a few hours ago. But, we managed to find enough things to order without making ourselves sick. We were happy to be in the dining room where the air conditioning was working. It was quite warm from deck 9 upward. Cetin said too many guests had left their verandah doors open and it would take a while for the system to recover.

APPETIZERS
Golden Fried Crab Cake, Served with Orange Aioli and Pico De Crystal
Ragout of Morels, Chicken and Asparagus in Puff Pastry Pillow
Pressed Tomato Terrine with Avocado Mousse Quenelles
Chilled Supreme of Tropical Fruits Perfumed with Honey Fermented Wine

SOUP AND SALAD
Cream of Chicken with Sun-Dried Tomato Julienne
Consommé Double "Diablotine"
Chilled Tomato Soup with Mascarpone Basil Quenelles
Traditional Caesar Salad Topped with Croutons and Parmesan Cheese Shavings
Assorted Mixed Greens with Fried Malanga Chips and Red Radish

PASTA SPECIAL
Penne Pasta alla Emiliana, Italian Pasta with Tomato Sauce, Bacon, Onions, Olives and Herbs

SALAD ENTREE
Sweet and Sour Vegetable Salad
Sweet and Sour Marinated Red and Green Bell Peppers, Onions, Carrots and
Pineapple on Lettuce Leaves, Topped with Soy Marinated Grilled Chicken Breast

MAIN FARES
Roasted Long Island Duckling "Bigarade"
Crispy White and Dark Meat, Served with Caramelized Orange Sauce,
Braised Red Apple Cabbage and Williams Potatoes
Broiled Fresh Fillet of Salmon
Served with Wasabi Mashed Potatoes, Crisp Vegetable Sticks and Dijon Mustard Honey Sauce
Chinese Sweet and Sour Pork
Crisp Fried Pork Tenderloin Cubes with Pineapple, Onions and Bell Peppers in a
Delicious Sweet and Sour Sauce, Served on Sticky White Rice
Grilled Black Angus Sirloin Steak
Served with Seasonal Vegetables, Idaho Potato Strudel and Sauce Béarnaise

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Stuffed Tomato
With Couscous, Mushrooms, Corn, Pine Nuts and Scallions,
Served with Yellow Capsicum Sauce

Upon your request, these Traditional Main Fares are also available: Grilled Filet Steak, Served with Idaho
Potato Strudel and Red Wine Shallots or Chicken Breast Served with Seasonal Vegetables, Mashed Potatoes
and Natural Gravy

SWEET FINALE
Sacher Cake with Cream Chantilly
Macaroon Tart with Fresh Fruit and Mango Sauce
Espresso Pound Cake with Coffee Ice Cream and Mango Compote
Low-Carb Sour Cream Timbale
Sugar-Free New York Cheesecake
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Lighter Fare: Refreshing Apple Compote with Cinnamon Sherbet and Blueberry Drizzle

Food review: The mixed green salad did not have anything resembling fried chips in it, so we still have no clue what Malanga chips are. Other than the lettuce, the only "extras" were grated radish and two tomato wedges. The pasta was tasty, but had a burnt plastic odor. Both entrees were outstanding. The steak in particular had a wonderful flavor and was cooked perfectly. However, the Béarnaise sauce was not served with it. We had frozen yogurt and vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce for dessert. Bulant vaguely tried to get us to sample his bananas Foster and later some crepes Suzette, but we weren't interested in either at that point (or ever, for that matter).

We chatted with Bulant several times during dinner because it wasn't particularly busy in the dining room tonight. There weren't many empty tables, but it seemed that everything was running smoothly, so there was no hysteria to speak of among the servers or headwaiters.

Tonight's after dinner entertainment is Australian Piano Sensation, Bernard Walz. There was also an edition of the popular Liar's Club presented earlier this evening in the Club 2100. We were too tired after dinner to attend the show. That will teach us to skip a nap in the afternoon.

We move one hour back on the clock tonight. The air conditioning was still not exactly chilly when we returned to the room, but so far it isn't terribly hot either. Let's hope it fixes itself sooner rather than later. We're happy that the weather is cooperating. If worse comes to worst we can always open the door to the verandah.

Today's weather is again perfect with clear skies, smooth seas, and temperatures in the mid 70's. The air conditioning started working again sometime during the night.

We received our disembarkation information this morning, so the end is near! There are many early flights, so independent travelers will not begin to leave until after 9:00 AM. We are in the 10:00 AM slot, which is fine with us. The final group to leave the ship is scheduled to depart at 10:20 AM. Of course, having a later departure time is no advantage when guests have to pass through immigration at 6:00 AM. We haven't received any information regarding that nightmare yet.

There is an American Classic buffet around the Neptune Pool today for lunch. It is fine for anyone who hasn't been here before, but we went to the dining room rather than bother with the crowds. We assumed, correctly, that all of the tables would be filled by the Seahorse Pool.

APPETIZERS
Smoked Salmon Quesadillas with Sour Cream Guacamole
Marinated Three Kinds of Herrings, Served with Parsley Potatoes
Vegetable Antipasto - Marinated Artichokes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Olives, Cauliflower and Plum Tomatoes
Iced Fresh Mango and Melon Cup with Curacao Liqueur

SOUP AND SALAD
Cajun Seafood Gumbo with White Rice
Chicken Consommé with Cheese Biscuits
Chilled Cream of Cucumber with Sour Cream, Dill and Baby Shrimp
Heart of Romaine Lettuce with Daikon, Cucumbers and Carrots

PASTA SPECIAL
Spaghetti Carbonara
Spaghetti with Cream, Pancetta, Parsley and Parmesan Cheese

SALAD ENTREES
Tuna Salad
Creamy Tuna Salad on Pita Bread, Served with Fruit Garnish and Potato Chips
Crunchy Garden Greens, Topped with Home Made Salmon Pattie
Garnished with Tomato, Mushrooms, White Beans, Cucumbers and Daikon, with Balsamic Dressing

MAIN FARES
Boiled Beef Brisket
Served with Fresh Horseradish Mustard Sauce, Braised White Cabbage and
Carrots and Sautéed Potatoes with Onions
Grilled Fresh Snapper Fillet
Served with Light Lemon-Citrus Sauce, Herb Pilaf Rice and Grilled Eggplant
Jambalaya
Creole Style Lightly Spiced Rice Dish with Chicken, Sausages, Onions, Celery, Peppers and Tomatoes
Sandwich of the Day - Monte Cristo
Sliced Ham, Turkey and Swiss Cheese on Sourdough Bread, Dipped in Egg Batter and
Golden Fried in Butter, Served with Fruit Garnish and Potato Salad

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Huevos Rancheros
Mexican Style Egg Dish with Refried Beans, Shredded Greens, Salsa Verde, Tomatoes,
Cheddar Cheese and Tortilla Chips, Topped with Two Fried Eggs

DESSERTS
Austrian Brioche with Sauce Anglaise
Blueberry Pie a la Mode
Pear Belle Helene
Sugar-Free Chocolate Pound Cake with Diet Ice Cream
Low-Carb: Baked Apple with Fruit Sauce
Vanilla, Espresso Chip, Rum Raisin or Strawberry Ice Cream
with your choice of Raspberry, Mango or Chocolate Topping
Refreshing Fig Sherbet
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Freshly Frozen Nonfat Orange Crème or German Chocolate Chocolate Yogurt
Selection of International Cheese Served with Crackers

We were very happy with everything we ordered this afternoon. Even the Monte Cristo, previously dry as a bone, was very good. The gumbo was skimpy with the meat, containing one tiny shrimp and a clam, but otherwise tasted fine. The pasta was outstanding. The dessert selection was also outstanding. We were served by our regular waiter, Santiago, just one table away from our usual place at dinner.

On the way out we had a lengthy conversation at the door with Bulant, who is leaving Crystal after this cruise. Crystal offered many long-time employees a generous package if they opted to leave rather than transfer to other ships. The only drawback is that they can't come back for a year and a half or they must return the bonus. That seems fair to us and the crew members who accepted it agree it is quite generous. We're sure many opted not to stay simply because Crystal is downsizing and there will be no chance for advancement in the foreseeable future. Although they keep insisting a new ship is in the offing, that has to be at least five years away or more. By then it will be time to retire the Symphony.

The ship has run out of the candied ginger usually available at the entrance to the dining room at every meal.

We spent so much time talking with Bulant that we went to the room to get the camera and went right up on deck to watch the final crew tug of war by the pool. We weren't aware that they held this activity on the other ships. We have always seen it during the "Olympics" held during World Cruises. The pool area was already full of guests and many more arrived to watch from the upper decks. Free rum punch was served on both decks to anyone who wanted it.

The housekeeping women came out dressed in bathrobes, slippers and shower caps. Needless to say, they didn't stand a chance against the men's team from the galley. The front office team lasted until the end, even beating the maintenance team. They recruited a team of guests who did win the first round, but were ultimately defeated by the engine room team. The first round for the engine room was against all of the children who were in the pool (about fifteen of them) because the team from the casino didn't show up. The engine room won the trophy, as expected. It was fun for guests and crew alike, many of whom were up on deck to watch.

After the activity of the tug of war, we wandered down to take a few photos for the diary of the empty shops. Elizabeth was standing in the Photo Shop, so we took a new photo of her and chatted for a few minutes. She will not be coming back because the only option she was given was to go to a Celebrity ship, which she will not do.

The shops are looking rather pathetic now. There was a huge advertisement in the Reflections today pushing the final sale, although the prices are still at 75% off. Captain's Choice was the first to be stripped bare several days ago. Facets is down to the dregs now. All of the Swarovski displays are empty and most of the shelves are bare, as well. There appears to be a lot of expensive jewelry remaining, but we did see several women shopping at the counters, so they may unload some of it by the end. Apropos has taken in everything remaining from Captain's Choice, so it doesn't look particularly empty, but we noticed that the glittery evening gowns have been replaced by casual wear today, so we assume they were sold. Crystal Collection has a some empty shelves in the back and they have now brought out boxes of colorful sandals to fill the tables in the window.

There was a classical concert in the Galaxy Lounge at 3:45 PM by Bernard Walz. We did not attend.

Cruise Consultant Randal had a line at his desk when we went in for lunch, an hour after his stated hours had ended. He still had a line at 3:00 PM when we wandered by again.

The skies started to cloud up a bit by late afternoon, but it wasn't stormy by any means. It has been sunny for the entire cruise up until now, so there's nothing to complain about in that department. When we went up for ice cream around 5:00 PM, the water was starting to slosh out of the pool and the temperature outside was much cooler than it had been earlier. We have no idea why the water was sloshing because the sea was completely flat.

Tonight's dress code is Formal for the Captain's Farewell Party in the Palm Court at 7:45 PM. The party was the same as usual, nothing special was said other than to point out that this is the last formal party on Crystal Harmony. When we arrived, Carolyn started dancing around singing, "It's the last party, it's the last party!". No other guests witnessed this, by the way, it was for our benefit.

Our dinner is in Kyoto with Randal and Bernard tonight, but here is the dining room menu anyway. By the way, this is the French Dinner menu with only the name changed. We do think someone should have paid more attention to the generic farewell message on the menu because it refers to guests who are staying on to the next voyage, which, of course, nobody is.

APPETIZERS
Seafood Cocktail With Sauce Marie Louise
Escargots Bourguignonnes - Burgundy Snails in Garlic Herb Butter
Crackling Salad with Pink Roasted Duck Breast, Tossed in French Dressing
Coconut Filled with Tropical Fruit and Sprinkled with Armagnac

SOUP AND SALAD
Cream of Asparagus "Argenteuil"
French Onion Soup with Gratinated Cheese Croutons
Vichyssoise with Red Bell Pepper Mousse
Selected Salad Bouquet with Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Artichokes, Palm Hearts and Asparagus
Served with Balsamic Vinaigrette

PASTA SPECIAL
Penne Puttanesca
Italian Pasta with Anchovies, Capers, Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives and Chili Flakes

SALAD ENTREE
Mediterranean Lamb Salad
Assorted Baby Greens with Grilled Eggplant and Zucchini, Feta Cheese, Black Olives,
Sunflower Seeds and Tomatoes, Topped with Sliced Lamb Rack and Served with Balsamic-Herb Vinaigrette

MAIN FARES
Alaskan King Crab Legs
Served with Melted Lemon Butter or Sauce Hollandaise, Steamed Fresh
Baby Vegetables and Saffron Pilaf Rice
Pink Roasted Rack of Lamb
In Garlic Herb Crust with Mint Flavored Natural Jus, Ratatouille Niçoise, Haricot Verts
and Gratinated Potatoes
Pan-Fried Veal Scaloppine
Stuffed with Herb-Mozzarella Stuffing, Served with Mushroom Risotto and Grilled
Vegetables with Pan Gravy

VEGETARIAN SELECTION
Grilled Vegetable Brochette
On Sautéed Spinach, Served with Roasted Eggplant Ravioli and Light Mustard Sauce

Upon your request, these Traditional Main Fares are also available:
Grilled Entrecote on Beurre d'Anis - Grilled Black Angus Sirloin Steak with Anise-Herb Butter with Ratatouille,
Haricot Verts and Gratinated Potatoes or Boiled Fillet of Salmon, Served with Sautéed Spinach, Chive Potatoes and
Lemon-Caper Beurre Blanc

SWEET FINALE
The American Institution - Baked Alaska Flambé en Parade
Cinnamon Mousse with Bourbon Caramel Sauce
Low-Carb and Sugar-Free Chocolate Cake with Low-Carb Ice Cream
An Assortment of Fruit in Season
Petit Fours and Chocolate Truffles

We'll do anything to avoid the Baked Alaska Parade, besides which it is nearly inedible, so we went to Kyoto instead.